Listed below are mostly Craps Pit visitor submitted
Have your system added to the list by e-mailing me at email@example.com
Visit the CRAPS PIT BOOK STORE !
I start with $140. bet $110 inside
and $15 each 4 & 10.
If a number is hit I drop to $96 across. After I hit one more I come done to $54 across leaving one number out. You should have all your money back on average.
Then you press in a pyramid. 3 presses on 6& 8 before you take, twice on 5& 9 before you take & once on 4& 10. The more you get up through the course of the play you start to pyramid more 4 presses on 6&8 , 3 on 5&9 twice on 4&10 and so on.
Although this system in theory is a very very risky
system , I have been extremely successful with it. I don't by any means claim
this system to be mine but I named it 2410 because you want 2 hits on the four
or 10. You can choose the number of shooters and your own bankroll but I
personally go with a 25 shooter bankroll.
Just for the sake of making it easy to understand I will use my starting bet at $100 although I really do it with $25.
The system is very easy. Starting with shooter #1, you buy either the 4 or the 10 for $100. The casino will charge you 5% for buying it, so it will cost you $105. If your number hits once you win $200 for a total of $300. Now you parley it. You buy it again for $300 and pay $315. If it hits again you have $900. Take $800 down and start all over again.
Like I said, in theory it is a horrible system, but that is why I bankroll myself for 25 shooters. If a shooter 7's out I just start right over again after a point is established. I don't know if I am just lucky but I am not lying when I say I have been very very successful with this. The worst I have done is just about break even because the parlay only happened three times in 25 shooters.
I must tell you that I am very strict with my 25 shooter bankroll. I put my original bankroll on 1 rail and I put my winnings in another one. When the original bankroll is gone I take my chips from the winning rail and call it a session. I in no way guarantee this system, but it really has worked so well for me I thought I would share it.
3 Hit climb
Here's a good method to try next time you go
(1) By pass the come out, wait for shooter to get a point, then place the nine for $10. Lets say nine is a winner. You get back $14 for your $10 bet. Tell stickman to take your $10 and add the $14 to it to make a total of $24 and move the bet to the #6 OR #8 (your choice).
(2) Lets say the #8 wins you have $24 on it. You get back $28 for your $24 bet. Tell stickman to take $24 and add it to your $24, making it a $48 #8 OR #6 (your choice). I leave mine on the number that just came out. The other $4 I put on the hard way (# if that's the number I played). Now you played the #9 and won, you played the #8 and won and now you are looking for one more hit on hard eight or easy eight after 2 hits your $10 is $48.
(3) Now lets say the easy eight comes out you get back $56 for your $48 bet. Now down on it all. Your risk was $10 and you get back $104. Now if the hard way came out you would have $40 more or a total of $144 for your $10 bet.
I did this at the Indian casino last night so it does work. Try it out and good luck. If you want you can make a 2way piggy back for the house guys, then everyone is excited when it comes out.
Craps Pit note: You can use any number combination or just play it all on one number.
A GOOD VARIATION OF THIS METHOD TO WIN MORE MONEY
After the come out roll:
1st bet- $15 on # 9. Say it wins, payoff is $21. Tell stickman to make it look like $36 and move it to the #8.
Payoff =$15 + $21=$36
2nd bet- you got $36 on the #8. Say it wins, payoff is $42. Tell stickman to make it look like $78 and move it to the #6.
Payoff =$36+ $42=$78
3rd and final bet- $78 is riding on the #6. Say it wins, payoff is 13 x $7= $91 + $78 = $169 - $15= $154 profit
Not a bad way to make money. Good luck
3 Number progression, regression
First of all, my system is designed to
accommodate a bankroll of $400-$2000 based on the premise of one in 10 shooters
do well. For a $400 bankroll, I make a pass line bet of $5 with $10 odds and
place two inside numbers for two units. I usually pick the 6 or 8 unless one of
them is the point, in which case I pick 5 or 9. So, let's say the point is 5.
I have $5 on the pass line, $10 odds, and $12 on 6 and $12 on 8. This is an
initial bet of $39. If 6 or 8 hits, I increase the bet to $18 on 6 and $18 on
8, giving me $2 back, so if the next roll is a 7, I'm down $37. If the next
roll is a 6 or 8, I come down to $6 on 6 and $6 on 8. This gives me $21 for
win, and $24 back by decreasing my bets, a total of $45. So, now I'm ahead $8
and am still on 3 numbers. From that moment on I press the bets until he 7s
This way, after 2 rolls, I'm ahead and can't get hurt by the 7. If you work with an $800 bankroll, you can start with $10 on the pass line, $20 odds, $24 on the 6 and 8 ($78 total). After a 6 or 8, I go up to $36 each and get $4 back. The second hit, I go down to $18 each and get $78 back ($42 for hitting 6 or 8 and $36 for going down from $36 each to $18 each). Now I'm
ahead $4 after 2 rolls and have $18 on the 6 and 8 and my pass line bet and odds bet in play for "free" so to speak. You can step up the bets depending on your bankroll.
In any event, I've found the beauty of the system is that after hitting my place bets twice, I'm ahead no matter what happens and still am in good position to take advantage of a hot roll. Of course, if he seven outs before he hits my place bets twice, I lose, but if all the rolls are going to be like that then the only way one would win is to play the "don'ts".
$22 inside regression, build
Bet $22 inside. $5 each on the 5 and 9, $6
each on the 6 and 8.
Take down the first two hits. Then replace those numbers you have taken down one at a time with the next two hits. Do not press any bets. Let them run until you lose.
REASON: First two numbers that you take down will show a small profit. For example. The shooter throws a 6, you take it down with a $7 win. Then the shooter throws an 8. You take that down with a $7 win. Profit on the $22 risked is $4. With the two remaining numbers still working you can build up the bets you took down till you have all the inside numbers covered again.
$22 inside method
$22 inside on the come out roll.
If hit by a 7 on the come out roll you double up, if you collected one bet you half double up, and if you collect 2 bets you go with the same bet.
On the 2nd hit you take down the 5 or 9, I use the 6 for the 5 and the 8 for the 9, and on the next collection all bets down until next 7 shows and you go back to square one. $22 inside,,,,that's it. Easy. But good size bankroll needed to protect you. Bankroll $5,000 min $10,000 max is ok LOU
$32 Across Martingale
$32 across working on the come out,
On each collection take that unit down. 3 collections and all down until the next 7 and repeat.
If hit with a 7 before 3 collections you Martingale your bets and do the same thing, 3 collections and all down and back to start.
On the $32 across bet if you collect once or twice you just go $32 across, no increase. And no increase at any level if two collections made, just repeat previous bet or you can add 1 unit to each bet if happens more than once....that's it...on wincraps $1500 low and at $6100+ now 40 hours 4800 rolls 151 per hour avg. Have fun Lou
Here's the system I use on the craps
table. You must start at a $350 buy-in or more, otherwise you'll play scared.
There are two ways to play this system based on how the table is running. You
determine this by how many inside numbers are being thrown on average whether
its 1-3 or 3-5. Chart the table before you jump in. Have at least two different
shooters in a row throw at least two inside numbers. If one shooter throws
fourteen inside numbers then sevens and the next guy/gal throws a 2,11,10,8,3,4
and then sevens out you cannot play yet. When the chart is successful you jump
Bypass the come out
Place the six and eight for $12 each and the five and nine for $5 each.
If the first throw after the point is a five or nine you regress both the six and eight to $6 each and leave the five and nine at $5 each.
Second hit take everything down if the shooters you charted were only throwing on avg. 2 or 3 insides. If they were throwing more come down on the five and nine.
You now have a $2 profit and $12 on the table. Next hit on the six or eight, place the five and nine. You are now risking a dollar to win $28 with one more hit. Down on everything after that fourth hit.
If the first throw is a six or eight I would regress both to $6 each and leave the five and nine up, take two more hits on any combination then down until a profit of $50 is reached (2 successful series) You can come down on the five and nine if the table has been cold and just wait for another hit on the six and eight before coming back up on the five and nine.
NOTE: If at anytime two shooters in a row seven out before getting any hits you must stop playing until the table has been charted again. If when you jump back after a successful chart and you get whacked leave the table.
When that $50 is reached you can stay out for an extra hit or continue the same way. If a profit of $100 is reached you can go to a higher betting level
What do you think? Comments welcome.
$66 Inside regression
Try $66. inside after the come out roll. $15
on the 5, $15 on the 9, and $18 on the 6, and $18 on the 8. Any hit pays you
$21. Two hits is obviously a $42 win.
Now after two hits you tell the dealer to regress your bets to $22 inside $5 on the 5, $5 on the 9, $6 on the 6 and $6 on the 8.
If a seven comes on the third roll you have won $42 subtract the $22. inside loss and you are still up $19. for that shooter.
Now what happens when that shooter comes along that rolls the dice for 30 to 45 minutes. Believe me you are going to have a huge grin on your face as you are getting $6. a hit on each and every inside number. Of course if you told the dealer to press any of these $6 bets and they continue to come up, hey guess what you are having even more fun.
Now Lets Review $66 Inside Regression Here Children.
We are betting the $66 inside numbers after the come out roll. Here are the possibilities of what numbers could effect your play.
The Number 7 six ways to make it.
Inside Numbers Eighteen Ways
#5 Has Four Ways
#6 Has Five Ways
#8 Has Five Ways
#9 Has Four Ways
That's 18 possibilities to WIN vs. 6 ways to LOOSE.
We are playing for two hits for a $42 profit. The risk/reward ratio makes this an excellent possibility.
After two hits we regress from $66 inside to $22 inside.
This gives us a $19. profit we have locked up no matter what happens.
Once the regression is made to $22 inside what ever hits you make is pure gravy.
There you have it, one of "The Best Systems" Free Of Charge from DollarYo, a real player that has been rolling the cubes for over 20 years.
Dollar Yo in Louisville Ky
4, 10 Point Progression
Step 1. Buy in for $100. to $500.
Wait for a 4 or 10 to get established. If you are a $100 buy in person you would place $54. across. That breaks down to 4($10) 5($10) 6($12) 8($12) 9($10), assuming the point is 10!
You then let the shooter hit 2 numbers and then turn your place bets "off".--you will miss out on several hot shooters, and the huge pay day, but you avoid the guy who rolls 6, 8, 7out. Depending on what numbers have been hit means you would have made a profit of between $28. and $36.
Step 2. You do the exact same thing as step 1. If you do this successfully, you should be up between $56. and $72.
Step 3. You now increase your bets. Still wait for a 4 or 10 to be established as the point. ( I have seen in my experience that 6's and 8's seem to draw the 7 out a lot faster than 4's and 10's...... you may disagree...)
You now take your original bet of $54. and add your profit to it. $54. for a total bet of $108. across. Hope the shooter catches 2 of your numbers and then turn them off. You would have just made between $56. and $72. for a grand total of $112. - $144.... You can now play using only profit from the casino.
This is a lower risk progression, however it always seems that a bad shooter pops up when you least expect it!
I have played this progression in casino's and turned my original $54. across bet into over $5,000.
Good luck. Jason
4 hits for 1 point
Normally I will make a $6
Place Bet on the No. 6 (My favorite Number) You can bet any number you like.
If a six rolls, the win is $7. I press the bet to $12 and receive $1 rebate.
If the 6 rolls again, the win is $14 + the initial $12, I add $4 and press to $30.
If the 6 rolls again, the win is $35 + the $30 bet, I add $1 and press to $66.
If the six rolls a 4th time, the win is $77 + $66 initial bet - I take down the $143.
Four rolls of the six in a single point set, perhaps, 2 or three point sets, if the shooter is hot and continues to make his/her point, along the way rolling a series of 6's, can pay well. The exposure, if you go all the way, is max. $10 - a net $133 profit. Most players expose more than that on the Place line or other bets.
Suppose the bettor loses at that strategy 9 of 10 times played (1 win). That single win of $143 (very good odds) versus $90 for the number of times (9) loss leaves a leaves an approximate 43% profit in a relatively short period - considering that 10 point sets can be played rather rapidly. If you are fortunate to get a series of hot rolls where the 6 or 8 is hitting constantly, you may be lucky enough to win 2-3 or more of this system strategies. As indicated, there is only a $10 exposure for a single strategy. I plan on 2 strategy wins of 10 and very often I will proceed to a $30 press bet and after the 3rd roll of a 6, I will take down at the $66 level because at this point the 7 is lurking. Many many times I had achieved the $66 point and was shot down by the 7. The profits could be enormous if one quits at this level because the six rolling 3 times is relatively good.
5 & 9 Progressive
Place the 5 & 9 for $15 each, first hit collect $21.
Second hit, either #, collect $21, give dealer $25 & press to $40.
Third hit collect $56-58.
Fourth hit collect $56-58, give dealer $60 & press to $100.
Hit last time for$140-150 & down.
6 and 8 Let it ride
This has probably been used before
in some way, but this is mine (I've won a lot playing this system). I always bet
the pass line. As soon as a point is established I take odds and the six and
eight. If six or eight is the point I double up on the other number. Here's my
little twist to this fairly standard way of playing. I always let the my bets on
the six or eight parlay until the end of the roll if the six or eight is the
point. As soon as the point is made I take the bet down. If 4,5,9 or 10 is the
point I just take the winnings when the number hits and leave the bet up, but as
soon as the point turns to 6 or 8 I double up on the other number and let it
Reason: There is a bet out there that you can push up and get rich off of, but you've got enough other safe bets on the table to keep you playing for a good long while. You're staying off all of the truly poor odds bets. Of course like any betting system, this is much more effective if you're also using money management.
Upside: you can win a lot in a hurry, you really only need one little hot roll. Downside: not much, as you are staying on the safest bets on the table (if you're betting with the shooter). I find this method pretty effective on anything but a truly cold table. If you go several rolls without a point being made you will be crying, but it only takes one hot roll to make your weekend.
6 and 8 1 hit profit
This method has worked steadily for me and it
all revolves around one initial bet of $24 each on the 6&8. After one hit,
take them down to $12 each. Total profit is $4 if a seven occurs.
HIT NO./WIN WHAT TO DO AT RISK TOTAL PROFIT
1/$28 take down to $12 ea. $24 $4
2/$14 place 5&9 for $10ea. $44 -2*
You don't have to go up on the 5&9 right away, but the sooner you do, the sooner you'll get more hits more often, and the -$2 is only for one more hit.
HIT NO./WIN WHAT TO DO AR TP
3/$14 same bet $44 $12
4/$14 press $22 inside $66 $4
5/$21 press $22 inside $88 $3
6/$28 press $22 inside $110 $9
7/$35 take down to $66 in $66 $88
By taking it down, you can show a better profit, and still be free to press after the next hit... AR TP
8/$21 press $22 inside $88 $87
9/$28 press $22 inside $110 $93
10/$35 same bet $110 $128
11/$35 press 6&8 $30 each $170 $103
Now on the next hit you then press the 5&9 by a quarter each if a 6 or 8 hits, otherwise wait an extra hit. For the sake of this chart, let's say that a 6 or 8 hits...
12/$70 press 5&9 $25 each $220 $123
After you get it up to $220 inside, you want to keep the pressing even for all four numbers, so that you always win the same amount.
13/$70 same bet $220 $193
14/$70 press $110 inside $330 $153
On the 15th hit, you'll win $105. At this point I take my bets down to $110 inside for a total profit of $478 plus all my bets still working if the roll continues. Feel free to extrapolate this method in any way, but the foundation should remain the same: $24 each on the 6&8 for one hit, then down to $12 each. Why not $12 each to start, then down to $6 each? The second thing you want to do is get up on the 5&9 as soon as possible. Winning $7 at a time will make you wait a few hits before you can do that. This method gets you up on the 5&9 after the second hit. The -$2 isn't as bad as losing $48 if you get wiped out without any hits. I can buy in for $300 and play for a long time. It's quite satisfying also when you do get just that one hit, then 7-out, because you made $4, but everyone else just lost a bunch. A good thing to do is to actually keep track of how many times you get wiped out. If I get wiped out for the fourth time, I quit. It doesn't matter how long I've played. But it is rare that you'll get wiped out twice in a row. Good Luck.
6 or 8 method
Here's a system or should I say method to take $17 and run it up
(1) Place $12 on the # 6 OR # 8. When it hits drop $4 and go to $30 total. ($12 divide by $6=2x$7=$14+$12=$26=$4=$30)
You now have $30 on either #6 or #8
(2) You got $30 bet. Another hit drop $1 and go to $66 total. ($30 divide by $6=5x$7=$35+$1=$36+$30=$$66 total)
(3) You got $66 bet after 2 hits so far. You could move it to the opposite number if you wanted to, EITHER #6 or #8, its up to you, or just leave it alone.
(4) NEXT HIT you collect $143 and down.
Not bad for $17 invested. ($66 divide by $6=11x$7=$77+$66=$143)
One variation of the
6 or 8 method:
The only difference is to place a $14.00 bet on the 6 or 8 to get $16.00 return which then presses to $30.00
The next hit drop a dollar to press to $66.00. This gives you a $143. on a $15.00 investment
6 & 8 opposing press
6 and 8 progressive 2
got me back my money several times when I was down take a look
Stating at $6 each on both 6 and 8.
First hit-I drop $5 and press them to $12 each. At this point I am $17 at risk.
Second hit- press one unit to $18 each collect $2.
Third hit-same bet, collect $21.
Fourth hit-drop $3 and press both to $30 each.
Hit five-same bet collect $35.
Hit six- drop $1 press each to $48.
Hit seven-collect $56. Regress to $12 each and take $72 off the table.
Hit eight- press one unit to $18 each.
Hit nine- drop $3 and press each to $30.
Hit ten- collect $56 and take me down.
HERE is the numbers rolled last time I went to casino and was in a deep hole but this method pull me out got all my money back
9-8-5-4h-2- (9) -8-3- (8) -3-3-8-5-3-4-9- (8) -6-8- (6h) -9-6-10- (9) -10h-8-6h-9- (10) -(7)-6h-7out
6-8 PR Money Machine
Buy in for $200 or less.
I have tried many “systems” or methods of betting and this one really lets me win.
This is a simple Progression/Regression betting system. One premise I use is that the 6/8 are the most common hit numbers and the most winnable.
How it works...
After the come-out roll place $6.00 on either the 6 or the 8 (the 6 seems to be a little faster in making $$$ in my opinion - but both work fairly well). Note: you will stay with that number for the cycle. For the novices – multiple's of $6 bets will pay you $7 for
each win as the odds for the place bets are 7 for:6. The cycle completes when you have progressed to at least $24 and returned to a $6 bet.
If the number you chose hits, take it and your winnings (come down). Now wait for the next come-out roll. Place bet the number again. Let me state that it is important to take the number down after a hit and to wait for a 7 to appear or the point being made - regardless of hot the shooter. Use discipline.
If you win again you stay at the $6 level. Should you lose that bet increase it to $12.
Lose again, increase it to $18. Win, regress to $12. Win again, regress to $6 – ad infinitum
So, lose a bet – increase the next bet one unit ($6) Win a bet – decrease by one unit ($6).
How high have I gone in the progression? Well the highest bet I have made was $96.
No big deal since my normal bets (for one roll) average $105 – which made me less steady money!!!
Note: You will really start to notice your heavy winnings on the regression side
Now that you have a sizable bankroll you should quit....all the “experts” say that. But what happens if you are like me?. We travel many hours to the casino and I have a wife that plays slots until she has had enough of that particular casino. So I may be there for one hour or six. Here’s what I do. I place bet BOTH the 6 and 8 after accumulating a 50% increase over my original buy in. Then I make more money still! You may want to pocket your buy-in and play with the winnings you have built up.
Working two numbers can be challenging. How much to bet on each, etc.?
Solution that works for me. I got a piece of magnetic sign material (the kind that you will see on the side of motor vehicles). Then I wrote (in tiny numbers) the progression of 6 12 18 24 36.... Then, snipping off a corner I had a triangular piece to lay on the progression number I was on - moving it as needed to cover my next bet. If you wish to play two numbers then make two identical lines and snip off two corners. You may wish to take a marker pen and color in the triangle so it is easy to see.
Want a real thrill? Rather than play 2 numbers to relieve the boredom, try betting the 11 or 3 in a progression series starting at $1 (after the number hasn’t shown for at least 18 rolls). I tried that twice (while on the system above) and luckily I hit on the 5th roll for $109 and the 22nd roll for $75. Not for the weak-of-heart but it is sure stimulating. <g>
Item last – when you color out be sure to ask for comps. Smokes, dinner, a show or whatever.
6, 8 Special
The way I created this system is that I am
not on a big gambling budget and I needed to get in the action without using a
lot of my money.
This is a simple way to "build your empire slowly" as my good friend Joey B. likes to put it. This is another way to bet with using presses and increasing your bet gradually.
You must wait for a qualified shooter, which is someone who has made a point. Then what I like to do is place the 6 and the 8 for $6 apiece, which we all know is the next best bet on the table after pass line with odds.
When you get a hit on either one of the numbers twice or hit the 6 and 8 separately, then you collect you winnings. The very next hit you press it up to $12 depending on what number has hit either the 6 or the 8. The very next hit you press one unit of $6. I would keep doing this until you are up on both numbers for $30 apiece. At that point go back to $6 on both. This way you are still collecting profits on a hot shooter and bumping up your bets at the same time.
This is just another variation on the pressing of winning bets. I came across this system in Atlantic City where the only tables open were $10 minimums. I am not a high roller so I had to bet $12 on the 6 or the 8. I was fortunate enough to place them both and then run my bankroll up to a couple of hundred of dollars on a hot roll.
The way with this system is that you only need 2 hits to make 2 bucks, then you lock in your small profit and you are playing with the casinos money.
See this table for more information:
After one hit: Place 6/8 Win
Two hits $12 $1
Three hits $18 $8
Four hits $24 $18
Five hits $30 $24
After the fifth hit you can go back down to $6 on both the 6 and the 8.
Try this at the tables and see how it goes.
Special Bonus Tip: When at the tables I suggest making a 2-way hardway bet for you and the dealers. I know what you are saying that is a terrible bet and I agree, but it is a nice way to tip the dealer and they will remember that bet. I like to throw the dice with both 3's in a V shape and when I did this in Windsor, Canada they would push the dice back to me in the way I like to
throw them. Also they will remember the way you bet and help to keep track of your usual bets. It's not much but I think a couple of those bets go a long way.
6, 8 Survival method
This is very similar to one of yours on the
I place bet the 6 & 8 for one roll only, the 1st roll after the point is established. I than take the bets down and wait for the point or a seven out. I start with $12 bets and press the winner. I'll throw the dealer a $1 and bet a hardway. This will give me some
interest in the game while I wait for the next six and eight bet. I like to raise my bets $12,-$24,-$48,-$60,-$90,-$150,-210 etc. If I loose twice early on I go to another table as this one is too cold to stay at.
I feel this gives me a chance to observe the game early on and still be part of it. I don't want to be at a table where a 7 comes out immediately after the come out roll and this gets me away from those tables quickly with a small loss. When this system works you have house money to go deeper into the game for longer than just one roll if you chose but never leave your 6&8 bet out for very long. The system also has your money off the table most of the time, using house money after a few hits. The down side to this system is it takes a long time to work, and the dealers don't like to play with off buttons but once they get the pattern down its not much trouble if they get tips.
Its nice to stand at a cold table hit once and wait while everyone else goes down the drain, its a good survival system.
I recently put together a system that I like
to use when playing in Vegas. If I know I want to put in multiple hours at a
time at the tables and want to avoid the downside. I would iterate as you do
that this is not a "winning strategy" but it will help you avoid losses.
I go to the table with anywhere between $200 and $500.
I prefer to place $44 inside. I let the numbers work for one roll.
I press one unit on the number that hits and then turn them all off.
I wait for a 7 to be rolled and then turn them on for another roll.
I continue to press the numbers by one unit on a win and add the 4 & 10 for $5 each somewhere along the line.
I lose when two sevens are rolled together.
This system works best for the place bet player. The math says that the expected return is unchanged, but by not waiting (tempting fate) for the eventual 7 you are "dancing" around it with the potential to make out nice. I have watched the dice pass around the table 4 times in less than an hour and I still have my original $44 bet up...I have also watched a great roll to be followed by two sevens and I miss the boat and lose my $44. This can anger some dealers as you have inactive money on the table, but by simply letting them know when they will be turned on usually calms their nerves.
This system allows one to sit patiently at a table for hours on a limited bankroll. It requires discipline and patience!
One can incorporate a $5 field bet to cover all of the numbers if desired.
This is not rocket science, but it can help those that enjoy hanging around the table and don't mind having inactive money.
Second I did not mention one slight of hand I like to do with my bets whenever playing a place bet game. Stay with me for a while and I will explain my favorite progression of bets I use with this and all systems. I will use a placed six as my example.
Start with $12 and press one unit ($6) until a $30 bet is paid...I then reduce to $18 (giving the dealer $3 and keeping $50). I then go press as usual up to $30...then $42...then $60 and when hitting that I go to $30 keeping $100. Just a progression of profit taking I wanted to share.
I have played with around with letting the numbers work for one roll or wait for a hit. I have found that the one roll idea works better.
An emphasis on the system is that one must have patience and discipline.
I have had success getting to the $30 level with a $12 initial bet. I also like to grow my number together (i.e. not letting one number get too much bigger than the rest) so I seldom get to the $60 level after a reset. I have lasted as long as 90 minutes on one bet. I have also seen five 7's in a row. I will usually wait after a seven is hit and I am wiped out (2 sevens in a row) to see a non-7 hit before putting more money on the table.
If my numbers get above $50 and hit I will sometimes play the big/small number game to satisfy the gambler in me while the original bet is off.
As for when to let #'s work...I walk up to a table and either jump right in for one roll or usually wait for the first "7". I would encourage the wait for the first "7". This keeps the table happier. Nobody wants a player jumping in the middle of a potentially good roll and ruining the rhythm that so many people believe in.
I would point out that this method is designed for someone who wants to sit at a table for a long session.
I employ different systems depending on my mood going to the table or my ultimate goal (fun or money).
Anything but seven
Don't try this one at the casinos, but it's
kind of fun to try at home:
$15 Place 5
$18 Place 6 & 8
2,12 pay $20
3,4,9,10,11 pay $10
5,6,8 pay $11
7 loses $61
Basically every single roll pays 10-11 except 2 & 12 pay double. A seven costs you 60. It sucks but it's fun to get 10 bucks every roll. Of course, you can't be the shooter...
For the last five years I've been a dealer at a Harrah's casino and I can say
I've seen just about every system there is. (10 hours a day for 5 years is a lot
of rolls) At times it gets boring and we try to come up with ways to pass the
time. This is where the army system came from.
What you are basically doing is starting with the four and moving to the ten each time a number hits, thus the army bet. (we going to march the army on down the line) In the long run if it works you will turn $5 into $1500. It doesn't work often but I have seen it happen usually once a night. One time happened 3 times in 40 minutes.
$5 each- 4 and 10 working on the come out
If and when the 4 hits, drop a dollar and combine the 4 and 10 to a $20 5
Visa versa if the ten hits ($20 9)
When the 5 or 9 hit you go to a $48 6 or 8
When the 6 or 8 hit you go to a $102 8 or 6 (here you get $2 back investment now=$9
When the 8 or 6 hit you go to a $220 9 or 5 (here you get $1 back investment now=$8
When the 9 or 5 hit you go to a $500 10 or 4 (another $3 back investment=$5
If you get a 4 or 10 you come $1500 and down
This system requires patience and can be used with your own system as a side bet
you can change the dollar amounts and it doesn't matter if the number your is the shooters point. Remember your investment and don't get chicken at the end.
***The first time I tried this in a casino I brought down my $102 8, the next number was a nine and 10 minutes later he rolled the 10. I made $500 on the roll with my place bets, but that's no $1500 from $5.
Let me know what you think or any questions
Army Method (6 numbers)
are a lot of ways to play this ARMY SYSTEM with little money and different
version of the ways you bet it at the end I will tell you a couple more ways to
play it to make a lot of money if you are LUCKY and AT THE TABLE AT THE RIGHT
What you are going to do is TRY to hit 6 numbers before the seven shows up by one or more shooters you can turn bets off at any time to wait for next shooter to help make numbers.
Here is the way I choose to play the first number to bet for the ARMY SYSTEM (by the way the number came out from the come out roll in Frank Scoblete book page 79 beat the craps out of the casino, this way I don't have to guess which number to play, its automatically made for me and I don't have to think. I let the dice decide for me which number to play its good as any other way.
# MADE----------HOW IT WAS MADE----------PLAY #
NOW LETS SAY you buy in then you ( Wait for point to be established ) After that, it's up to you whether you want to work your bet on subsequent come outs or not.
( 1st) bet
Place $5 on # 10 (OR) # 4 your choice or ( like above shows good as any other way )
First hit pays $9. Collect $4 and step over to the next box number # 9 or # 5, depending on where you started
( 2nd) bet
Place $10 on the # 9 ( or # 5 ) You're basically risking a buck of your "own money" at this point.
Second hit pays $14. Add it to the $10 and step over to the next box number
( 3rd) bet
Place $24 on the # 8 (or # 6 ). You're still risking only a buck from your original buy-in
Third hit pays $28 you can Stop betting if you want to you had $24+ payoff $28=$52 --$1 =$51profit
You've profited $51 from your $1 at risk after first hit
Or...keep going on the Army System
After the third hit, take back $16 and put it in your rail. You're now up $15 on the shooter, and have guaranteed a return on your original $5 bet. ( $52--$16 take back=$36)
( 4th) bet
Place $36 bet over on the next number # 6 (or # 8) still have $1 at risk from original buy-in
A hit pays $42 ( plus $36 = $78 ). Put $28 in your rack and move on over to the # 5 ( or # 9 ). You're up by $43.
( 5th) bet
Place $50 bet on the next number # 5 (or # 9)
A hit pays $70 (plus $50 = $120). take back $20 and put it in your rack. You've got a profit of $63 Go for the kill!
( 6th) bet and final bet
Place 4 (10) for $100.
A hit pays $180+$100= $280 and down. Add the $63 you already racked, and your total take is $343 on your initial $5 wager. but $1 at risk after first hit.
NOW I KNOW YOU GOT TO BE LUCKY TO BE AT THE TABLE WHEN A LOT OF NUMBERS HAVE TO BE THROWN but for $1 risk after first hit that's the gamble are you up for it
Now a couple other ways to play the system
The original way to play it was to bet BOTH the # 4 and the # 10 for $5 each after either number came out you tell the dealer to take the number that did not come out and add it to the number that did plus the payoff then add a $1 to it to make it look like $20 and have it moved to the next number like this.
$5 on # 4 + $5 on # 10 lets say the # 4 came out payoff would be $9 + $5 from # 4 + $5 from # 10 that did not come out=$19+$1added=$20 move to next number which would be # 5 and you would keep moving the numbers to the next number as they came out like # 4 # 5 # 6 # 8 # 9 # 10
YOU WOULD BE RISKING $5+$5+$1=$11 thru and after the first hit after the # 6 came out you would take back $2 so your risk would be $9 now and let the $102 ride on next number # 8 then after the # 8 hit you should take back $1 more now risk is $8 and let $220 ride on next number # 9
After # 9 hit YOU HAVE TO MAKE A DECISION EITHER BUY THE # 10 OR JUST PLACE IT. If you buy it take back $3 now you got $5 at risk to TRY make $1500 cause it will cost $25 from your $528 payoff after the # 9 comes out but if you just place it for $525 taking back $3 you would collect $1470 and you were risking $5
NEXT WAY YOU WILL RISK $7 TO TRY TO COLLECT $1120
After come out place $5 ON EITHER THE # 4 OR # 10 or let the way like start of article pick number for you. After first hit lets say # 4 + payoff of $9 +$5 add $1 to make it $15 move to next # 5. keep moving numbers up line after they hit
After # 8 you have to add $1 more which gives you a total of $7 at risk.
NOW after the # 9 hits you can take back $8 which gives you $1 profit but let the $400 ride on the # 10 for A CHANCE OF HITTING FOR $1120.
Army Method (Conservative)
Here's a conservative variation to the army
system. It will cost you more for the first bet but after the first hit
you will have $1 at risk and $50 action going. On the other army system
you have to move from 4,5,6,8,9,10 to win $1500 with $10 first bet and on this
one you will have $50 at risk on first bet looking for either #4 or #10 then #5
or #9 then #6 or #8. Well here goes.
Start off BUYING the #4 & #10 for $25 EACH cost $50 plus $1 to buy it equal $51.
After first hit come down on the #4 & #10 getting money back $50 and place the #5 & #9 with pay off from first hit.
At this point you have $1 at risk cost of buying the #4 & # 10 for $50 action.
If the #5 or #9 hit come down on #5 & #9 now $50 ahead.
Add a $1 to the $35 payoff making it total $36 and place the #6 & #8 for $18 each. One hit on that will kick off another $21 and its down on everything, giving you another $36 total profit $107.
Minus -$2= $105 profit for the series with VIRTUALLY no risk after the first hit. This is a very do-able method what do you
ARMY SYSTEM Variation
Make a $50 pass line wager and roll the dice to establish a point, then drop double odds behind pass line and place all remaining box numbers for either $270 or $260 across and wager $10 each on C and E.
I have noticed the
difficulty any shooter has making 3 points. But once he does he usually goes on
to make at least 1 more, sometimes several more. I have tried to formulate
a system that will protect the player from this "time of trial" until a
"qualified shooter" appears. I will detail the basics and you can add your own
improvements, hedges, place bets, DC, and come bets etc.
1st bet- table minimum, no odds.
2nd bet- if first bet wins table minimum, single odds.
3rd bet- table minimum, double odds.
Based on each point being a 6 or 8 at a $5 table, if you won all 3 bets your profit would be $33, not including any other bets you won or lost. If you lose the first bet you are down $5. If you lose the 2nd bet you break even on your line bet and the same holds true for the 3rd bet. If any of the winning bets with odds were out side no's you would show a small profit. I have seen too many players go broke on line bets alone. Wait until he makes those vital 3 points and in the process if he is throwing no's get some place bets down and take them down or turn them off after a few rolls on the 3rd point. After that 3rd point is made go to double or triple minimum using the same odds structure so you maintain that break even edge on your line bet. GOOD LUCK
Big and Little Place bets
Big and Little Place
bets on 5, 6, 8, and 9.
Start with Big Bets of $10 - 5 and 9, $30 - 6 and 8.
Let Big Bets ride for 3 active rolls then regress to Little Bets.
Little Bets start at $5 - 5 and 9, $12 - 6 and 8.
When a Big Bet wins - press.
When a Little Bet wins on 5 or 9 - press one unit starting with 2nd win.
When a Little Bet wins on 6 or 8 - press one unit on each win.
When a point is made or lost - reset whole cycle except as follows:
When 1 point is made - Big Bets will only ride for 2 rolls.
When 2 points are made in a row - Big Bets will only ride for 1 roll.
When 3 or more points are made in a row - skip Big Bets, go to Little Bets.
When any 7 is rolled (natural or otherwise) start Big Bets over with 3 rolls.
Budget Six and
I get a lot of requests for my six and eight power press progression, but many players feel uncomfortable with these strategies because they typically start with $18 - $30 place bets. Here's a power-press progression that starts much lower - with just $6 each on the six and eight.
By-pass the come-out roll, then begin by placing $6 each on the six and eight. On the first hit on either number drop $5 on the table with the $7 pay off and tell the dealer to PRESS both the six and the eight. You now have a total of $24 action with $17 at risk. This is the most you will have at risk during this progression and is the highest point of risk in the play.
The second hit on either the six or eight will pay $14. Tell the dealer, "SAME BET" and put the $14 in your back chip rail. You now have $24 action with only $3 at risk.
The third hit on either the six or eight will pay an additional $14. Tell the dealer to PRESS the six and eight to $18 each and add the $2 change to the back chip rail. You now have $36 action with only $1 at risk.
The fourth hit on either the six or eight will pay $21. At this point you have five options. Let's look at them in order of preference, with Option 1 being the first choice.
Option 1: Bring me down. You will take down the $36 action and add it and the $21 payoff to your back chip rail, locking up a net $56 win for the series.
Option 2: Make my six and eight look like $6 each. You lock up $24 action and the $21 payoff. No matter what happens, you are guaranteed a $44 win for the series.
Option 3: Same Bet. You lock up the $21 payoff and have a guaranteed $20 win for the series.
Option 4: Up a unit on the six and eight. You lock up $9 and press the six and eight to $24 each. You have $48 action with an $8 profit in the rack.
Option 5: Make the six and eight look like $30 each. Drop $3 on the table with the $21 payoff and press the six and eight to $30 each. You now have $60 action with $4 at risk.
The smart money says the three most powerful words at the craps table. "Take me down."
Casino Hop system
This system is designed for players whose intention is to sightsee the casinos rather than play in them for an extended period.
Your buy in is for just four bets of your
choice. Your goal is to win 50% of your buy in. Say you want to make four $6
place bets on the six and eight. Your buy in is $24 and your goal is to win $12.
Hopefully you'll win your first two bets and you can move on to the next casino.
You can make one or two place bets at a time.
You can leave them working or take them down at any time.
You would keep playing until you win 50% or lose 75% of your buy in.
You can make any type bet you want. I use the six and eight as an example.
You can adapt this system to any casino game.
Using what's outlined above, $100 will allow you to gamble in five different casinos. If you win 50% at all five casinos, you'll have a $60 profit.
Craps: A Winning
The strategy in a nut shell is as follows:
1. After the shooter establishes a point, make a place bet on the 5, 6, and 8 and a field bet that is one-half of the payout of the 5, 6, or 8. If you bet $10 on the 5, $12 on the 6, $12 on the 8 your field bet will be $7 because the payout for the 5,6, & 8 is $14.
2. Make two (2) bets per shooter. Once the shooter makes two rolls of the dice, remove all bets and wait until the next shooter.
3. The book goes into more detail of the betting strategy, the theory behind the strategy and variations for betting on a "hot" shooter.
Click here for more info.
Five six hop:
Right after the come out roll place the 5 for $5 and if it hits add the winnings to it and tell the box man to slide it over to the 6 for $12 (the parlay). If it wins on the 6, take it down. It's a simple game and you don't need to handle so many chips this way. (only when u win) Just get the $5's ready ahead and put the winnings on the back rack. If you want, use a loss progression of 1,1,1,2,2,3,4,5,7 units ($5 chips) which equals a buy in of $130. It makes it more daring. A win parlay and a loss progression (with a limit) A fun way to play, you'll be in the plus most of the time and you will rarely lose the $130, but you will sometimes. I usually quit when I made about $50.
Full Court Press - Pass Line,
Place 6 & 8, continuous Come bets
Progression/regression on inside Place bets. Objective is to get 2 wins between 7's
All bets down after 2 wins / 2 rolls no wins / 5 rolls 1 win
Bets double if lost with no collection
Bets increase 50% if lost after 1 collection (double if on minimum bet)
Bets decrease 50% if removed after 1 win and total bet
Bets decrease to min if removed after 1 win and total bet
Bets decrease 75% if removed after 2 wins and total bet
Bets decrease to min if removed after 2 wins and total bet
On first win, take down either 5 or 9
The whole concept of craps obviously (for right players) is to avoid the 7 after the come out roll. Even on the come out roll, which is really no different than any other roll as far as the odds for a 7 showing, is a factor in my method. I do not play the pass-line (except when I am shooting because I have to) I place 3 units each on 3 numbers (a unit can be as low as $5 or as high as you want to go-for this example we will use $5). I bet on what I call either down-town, 4,5&6, or uptown 8,9&10. You now have $48. action and I have the bets working on the come-out roll. On your first hit, you bring everything down to 1 unit each, leaving $16 on the board. Taking in either $21 on the 5/9, or 6/8 and $30 on the 4/10, leaving you with a net profit of $5 or $15, depending on which number hit plus all the money on the board is the house's money. What you do from here is entirely up to you according to how aggressive or conservative I am aggressive and with each hit I will increase a unit on the opposite number, i.e. if a 6 hits I bet 8, if a 9 hits I bet 5, etc. When the numbers have two units or more I will press 2 numbers 1 unit each. if 4 hits bet 1 unit more 4 and 10.
Hit & Run method
First watch the table for 2-3 complete circles.
Sense a hot roll.
Place bets across 2 units, and buy (for 4,5 and 9 10) and also on the Field 1 unit.
Play 1 or 2 rolls only.
Remove all bets.
This guarantees a win.
Example- If 1 unit is 100 $ then this guarantees a win of $ 100 or 140 or 200 or 400 or 500 on each roll.
After 2 rolls stop playing for that day or in that casino for that day.
This works if the roll is hot.
So watch and wait then Hit and Run.
Watching in this setting pays more than anyplace else, wait more and surely get that Hot roll for a kill.
This needs LOT of Discipline
Hundred Dollar ho-down
This is a variation of the 'anything but 7' system.
Wait for a point to be established and then place the 5 for $25, 6&8 for $30 and a $12 field bet (this comes to $97 which ~$100...hence the name of the system).
After the first hit (hopefully not a 7) you regress as follows:
If a 5,6,8 hit: Reduce your 5,6,8 to $17 action ($5-5, $6-6, $6-8) and put $5 in the field (anything but 7 strategy from here on)
If a 4,9,10,11 hit: Remove your $25-5 place bet and reduce the 6&8 to $6 each
If a 2 or 12 hit: Reduce your 5,6,8 to $17 action ($5-5, $6-6, $68) and put $5 in the field
This system is another regression system. It is based on the idea of gambling with the casino's money. Starting with the original bets will return you enough money to continue play with higher odds of winning. The advantage is that you can regress after ANY number other than 7 rather than waiting for a specific number to appear. After you've done the initial regression, you can press until your hearts' content without risking any of your own money. And if the seven eventually falls, you don't have to worry cause it wasn't your money anyway. The only problem is the initial $100 bet but that's the reason we gamble right?!?!?! If you do the math, then you will see that you initially win 83% of the time (30/36...6 ways to make a 7 and 30 ways to roll ANY other number). It's up to you to decide whether or not that's a high enough percentage to gamble on. Run it through the simulators to watch it work!
Inside numbers & field
My goal is for 300 a session. A session will have three hits and
the place bets will be off after each hit and wait for the next come out.
Session bet- 5 & 9---$ 60
6 & 8---$ 150
Field bets do not count as a hit , but, removed after a place bet hit.
Why use a Field Bet ? While I am waiting for a hit on the inside place bets , I can pick up some change on the field bets and it reduces the loss of a 7 out before
a hit on the place bets.
Place bets are on (5-6-8-9) until a hit on any 188.8.131.52. I then ask the Dealer to " Put place bet on off". I do not play the field when Place bet are on off. I have the dealer put Place bets " On" after the next come out roll and a point is established. After a hit , this session is over and I take all bets down.
I have three of these sessions. Sometimes if the table is choppy I will only have one or two sessions.
There are times when a 5,6,8, or 9 just will not show. I limit my hits on the field bet to four. I then put the place bets on " Off" and wait for next come out roll.
The hardest part to do is watch the 6s,8s, and 9s show when your place bets are on off. You say to your self, I am losing all this money. This is true in the short run. In the long run you will be a head $ taking little $ at a time.
If you seven out with no field bet hits, It takes 3 or 4 hits to be even. This has worked for me.
My suggestion would be to practice this method on a casino craps game on your computer. This is what I do.
Play pass line $5. Never play behind (odds).
Once point is established: bet $5 on field, place 6 and 8 (1 unit each), unless 6 or 8 is point. In that case, place 6/8 and 5 (not in field). therefore, you have point 6/8 field (only point you don't have is 5).
If field hits: move winning to other place bets; 5 and 9 or 4 and 10- no more field bets.
If field does not hit: 1 more field bet.
If field hits: see above.
Only play field maximum of 2 times on first and second rolls after point.
If it hits first time, do not play it again.
So on second roll, you have point, and all of field, plus 6 and 8.
First place that hits, cover rest of points. This covers all of points:
Keep first win inside, if 6/8 hit, press every other.
If 5/9 hit, press every other
If 4/10 hit, press every bet with half of winnings. Once 4/10 hit 2x, add $1. to winnings and buy that point. That means that the casino has bought the number for you, minus the $1.
Roll 1: 5 on pass line, roll=8
Roll 2: 5 on field, 6 place on 6, 5 on 5 (points covered=field, 6, 5, and 8)
Roll=field- take winnings and place other inside numbers, no more fields.
Roll=5- move winnings to other inside numbers
Roll 3: no field bet since field hit, if field didn't hit on roll 2, bet on field again. basically, we are trying to cover all of inside numbers with some of the casino's money.
Pressing should be done as above. This is where the payoff is. This is not as aggressive as the max odds behind the line and 2 come bets with full odds. However, you can weather cold tables longer to be there when it pops.
Note: I always toke (tip) during play to ensure help. I never wait until end of play to tip. If you wait until end to tip, staff doesn't know if you are going to tip or not. Kelly
My strategy is simple...
First have a decent bankroll to make decent money. I walk in the casino with $2000. I don't break it down into sessions, I don't split it three ways or bet one hour and not the next or what ever ridiculous things people do.
I take $160 inside, or $80 in if I feel unlucky, and I keep track of my winnings. I loss with out a hit on an inside number is 2 units I have to recoup. If I bet $160 in and hit once for $70, then I am only down about $90. That is how you have to look at it, once you put your money down on the table, it is the house's money until, you pick it up. When I place $160 down, I know I just lost $160. I am looking for the shooter to hit 2 inside or 3 inside numbers, and then I come down with a profit. If two shooters seven out before I hit one number, I walk out. If a shooter, throws 5 outside or craps numbers, I play the odds and pick up the place bets and I wait for the next shooter.
Watching place betters are funny, they never pick up a profit, never. It would be like going up to a black jack table and pressing your winnings no matter what until you lost, and I have never seen a blackjack player do that.
I have been known to stay at tables for hours to days. Now, if I hit 5 numbers and have $350 that I didn't have before, I walk out. I once stood at a crap table for exactly 55 seconds before walking out with $350. That's discipline. If I do that every day for a work week, that's $1750, for about 10 hours of driving and maybe 1-2 hours of actual playing.
Think I am crazy...I turned a $0 bank account into $35,000 in 20 weeks...that's less then one half of a year.
Ponder what I have said, think about it logically, and if you have comments or questions please..email me.
developed this system by combining Anything But Seven, Sixes and Eight's, and
playing the Pass Line. I have won a share of money with it and always have fun
playing this way. I have not figured a name for it, any suggestions will be
Buy in at a $5 table for at least $200. Make a $5 pass line bet. Whatever the point, back it up with double odds. If the point is 5,6,or 8 place a double unit bet on the other two numbers, then a single unit bet in the Field. You will win on any number except the 7. After 2 hits on any of the no- field numbers, take everything down except the Pass Line bet with odds. You will now have at least a $5 profit (depending on how many field #'s hit) and a Pass Line bet with double odds working. Let the dice roll until a decision is made, then start over.
If the point is 4,9,or 10 just place the 6& 8 take 2 hits and take them down. This gives you a $13 profit even though the tough Pass Line bet doesn't hit. If it does, so much the better.
Play this way if the table is warm or hot. After two losing rolls in a row, or if you're $100 down, drop to single odds and come down after 1 hit on your place numbers. Play this way until you get 2 winning rolls in a row, then return to your original play. Four losing rolls in a row, end that session.
Once you're $100 ahead, press your odds a unit. If the 6& 8's are hitting, press them a unit and regress to 12, then 6 then off.
If the Field numbers are coming in, continue to play the field after removing your place bets. This is where your powers of observation and your skill as a craps player comes in. Have fun with it, just remember to drop to single odds and one hit after 2 consecutive losses or you go down $100 and start over.
This method keeps you busy raking in your wins, and allows you to stand at the table with a Pass Line bet even after you removed your other bets. I think it is hard (and boring) to stand there with no action. It also uses the best bets on the table. Give it a try and let me know what you think.
Joe Verona firstname.lastname@example.org
Modified 3 Point Molly
What surprises me the most about craps players is that no
one keeps track of the numbers. I guess they are waiting for that elusive hot
roll, which is a rare occurrence.
If in fact you were at a hot table, you would play the basics of presses on places and comes and increased pass line bets after a win on the point number. But that is not the norm with craps. You are usually dealing with a cold or choppy table or sometimes a warm table where someone may throw some numbers, make his point, throw some yo's or sevens, establish another point and then throw some more numbers and maybe make the point. Depending on how the player has played, the DO player should have made some money on this shooter.
I have a system that I am playing a dry run with right now that takes advantage of these 3 types of tables, which on average is 96% to 99% of the time. It is a white acrylic board with 37 lines and approx.6" x 9". On the left side are small square 1/4" markers where the # 7 has 6- 1/4" markers attached in a column plus the # 7 clearly written on the marker. This slides in a groove along with the rest of the numbers where the 8,6 has 5- 1/4" markers each attached in a column, the 5,9 has 4- 1/4" markers, the
4,10 has 3- 1/4" markers etc... covering all dice combinations. I think you get the idea. These markers can be removed when their number hits, then sliding the other 10 combinations up, replacing it at the bottom of the column. Half way up the board on the 19th line I have a neutral line and when the 7 crosses that neutral line all bets are taken off. Meaning that any part of the 7 even the first attached marker and greater crossing the neutral line signals and end for that play until another 7 is thrown.
Believe me, if the table gets hot this board will end up under the rail where the drinks go.
I have brought the board to Foxwoods for dry runs and naturally you are laughed at by players and dealers, but if I can eke out a small profit playing my system, then I'll be the one laughing silently.
Another thing that I do not understand about some die hard don't players is when a table gets hot even for 15 min. to an hour or more they just sit it out while all the do players are hauling it in. I guess that is called discipline. I've played the don't many times but will switch in a hot second if the table goes hot or sometime even warm. Like if I like the shooter's style etc...
My new system with the board does not play the don'ts or pass-line, just places the 5,6,8,9,4,10 and buys the 4,10 only after a seven out and it is a losing round will I by the 4,10 because now the bets are more than doubled from 10 units to 25 units for the 4 and 10. This takes into account the savings on the buy bet for the 4,10 after the first 7 out. The max. I bet are 3 numbers at a time. All (due) numbers nearest to the top of the column. Take all down when 7 hits neutral line. Marking with an O with a magic marker (water based) on the bottom of the 7's column line on the board when a 7 out occurs. This way you can get a general idea on where the 7's are occurring the most in the column . Playing all bets on, during come out and if during the roll one of your numbers hits, move to another due number next in line maintaining 3 numbers played at all times. All the time if the 7 moves to the center neutral line bring down all bets.
You have to see it in action to really understand what is going on.
It is a progression system but will drop other bets back to starting amounts if hit is enough on one or two wins to take you even or slightly ahead. I only use the progression when I have NOT broke even or ahead for the round. First round lost, bets were $12 on the 6,8 and $10 on the 5,9,4,10. It would be 3 of any of these numbers that are due. Most you could lose --- $34 Second round lost, bets were $24 on the 6,8 and $20 on the 5,9 and buy $25 on the 4,10. Again the most numbers bet 3 that are most due. Most lost on the second round would be $74 +$34 = -$108 largest possible total loss from 1st and second round loss. etc
There is also a stop loss limit of =<$1000. So your bank should be at least $1000. per session.
Here's a practice run.
Before I start to play I place a single white blank marker on the bottom of the column before starting. This way as the numbers come out anything left above the white blank marker has not yet hit. This marker when enough rolls have been made will stay at the top for the session.
You do not start play yet.
Now I will give a simulated roll ....
7,10<point,5,3,2,8,7<out. The 4,6,9,11,12 are still above the white marker.
Not ready to play.
3,8<point,2,9,5,5,6,8<point made. The 4,11,12 are still above the white marker. At this point only the 4 has not shown. The horns,(2,12,3,11) I disregard anyway but always move them to the bottom of the board when any of them hit. At this point we need to wait until the 7 hits because the 7 is well over half way (about 2/3 up in the column above the neutral line.
At this point the order of # from bottom to top are ---
Order of numbers now are from bottom to top are ---
At this point we can begin play.
The 10,6,8 in that order are the top of the column picks.
Place $10 on #10 and $12 each on the 6 and 8
Work them on come---Roll... come out
5<point,3,9 --- at this point the top of 7 is only two notches below the neutral line so your bets can go for at least one more roll. More if a repeat of 5,3,9 below the 7 or 2,12,11 above the 7.
6<hit $14 take down, plus take down the 8 and the 10 because now the 7 is in neutral territory. It has 3 markers above the neutral line and 3 below. This is because if you add up the numbers thrown previous to the 7 which are in order from the bottom 6,9,3,5 the total sum value of 15 markers plus the 3 from the 7 makes it 18 which is half way to the top. Making the 7 dangerous because once one of it's markers or more passes the neutral line, take down all place bets. Remember when I said 19 lines to the neutral line, you have to count the 1st line. So really 18 markers fill 19 lines.
So now the 4,11,2,8,10,blank,12 are above the 7 but bets are now off until a 7 out or a point is made and another 7 on come out is made. In other words you are looking for a 7 so you can start play so wait....
Reading from top of the column down the 10,4,6 are due in that order. Etc... I always have them working on come out because 5 out of 7 times one of the due number comes out as the point in the come out roll. Yes you can get burnt by 7's on come out. That's where progression comes into play.
It gives you that necessary discipline to take down bets also.
I hope this explains it better.
Here is a ms word doc. drawing of the board. Right click to download--Craps Tracker.wps
Maybe another wacky system but appears to have some merits. I can win money in front of the computer, but in the casino that could be a different story. It is basically placing the 3 most due numbers, the 4,5,6,8,9,10 I bet you have heard it all with this one!
Any comments welcome and I am thick skinned, so don't pull any punches. Anyone taking something like this into a casino would have to be thick skinned or crazy or both.
Pass line aggressive
This system is similar to the pass line conservative
method. The difference here is that you add a come bet with your pass line bet.
It's a more complex system because you have to deal with two different points,
which means keeping track of the betting levels on the odds bets for both of
them. Use a pen and paper if it helps.
The method is the same. For every win, you increase your odds bet and with every loss, you decrease your odds bet.
You make a $5 pass line bet and take single odds ($5) after the point is established. But then you would place $5 in the come box and, when the come point is established, you take single odds (another $5) on that as well.
Let's look at an example. The pass line point is 6 and the next number rolled is 8, so you have $5 plus $5 odds on the 6 and $5 plus $5 odds on the 8. The shooter throws another 8, so you win your first come bet. You make another $5 come bet. The shooter throws a 4, which becomes your new come point. You put $10 on the odds because you won last time. A few rolls later he makes the 4, so you win your second come bet and immediately put another $5 come bet down. Next, the shooter rolls a 5, so your $5 goes to the 5 and you take $15 in odds. A few rolls later he hits the 5 again, so you win and put $5 in the come box. The shooter rolls a 9 and you make a $20 odds bet. The next roll, however is a 7, so you lose both your come bet and your pass line bet. Your next bet on the pass line is $5 plus $5 odds, since you lost your first and only pass line bet. Your next come bet is for $5 and $15 odds, because you lost your come bet for $5 plus $20 odds.
Remember, all you're doing is making a pass line bet and a come bet, then increasing the odds on either bet you win and decreasing them on either one you lose.
Reprinted from an article in Chance magazine, with permission from the author, Larry Edell. Visit his site at Thecrapshooter.com
Pass line conservative
This system takes advantage of the free odds bet.
You start by making a minimum pass line bet (say $5), and add single odds behind it ($5). When you win you would continue to make a $5 pass line bet, but now you would increase your odds bet by 1 unit. When you lose you would decrease your odds bet by one unit. The $5 pass bet remains the same, only the odds bet goes up or down.
Here's an example of how it works. You make a $5 pass line bet and the add $5 odds to start. The first point is six, and you win your bet. On your next bet, you make a $5 pass line and a $10 odds bet. You win the second point (5), so for your third bet you make a $5 pass line and a $15 odds bet. You win this point (4) and your fourth bet is $5 on pass and $20 odds. So far, you've won three bets and lost none. Let's say you lose your fourth wager for $5 and $20 odds, as well as your fifth bet (for $5 plus $15 odds), and you sixth bet ($5 plus $10 odds). How do you think you made out? Let's follow the money.
The first bet was for $5 plus $5 odds, for which you won $5 for the pass line plus $6 for the odds bet on the 6- a total of $11. You won the second bet on the 5 for $5 plus $15, a total of $20. The third bet, on the 4, brought you $5 plus $30, or $35. So on these three bets you won a total of $66. You did, however, lose the fourth ($5 + $20), fifth ($5 + $15) and sixth ($5 + $10) bets, amounting to a total loss of $60. So with as many losses as you had wins, you're still left with a profit of $6.
This is the power of the casino's free odds on the pass line. As long as you keep increasing your odds bet by one unit after a win, and decreasing it by one unit after a loss, you'll do much better than a flat-betting pass line player who keeps making the same wager over and over again.
Reprinted from an article in Chance magazine, with permission from the author, Larry Edell. Visit his site at Thecrapshooter.com
Place, reduce, turn off, take down
This is my favorite for the right side on a choppy table
as the 5 count variation is for the
don't side on a choppy table. Depends on who is getting chopped the most. When I
look at this system its really is a don't system in "Sunday go to meeting
COME OUT NO LINE BET. Place the inside for $22 working, $5 to $7 on big red is optional. If the 6 or 8 is hit, take down the 5 and 9. Give the shooter two more try's then turn off the 6 and 8 for 3 try's or whatever suits you. Turn back on for 2 try's hit or miss and then take them down. If you lose both the 6 and 8 you break even.
If you start with $44 across take down the 5 and 9 reduce the 6 and 8 to $6 and follow this procedure thru. $66 across to $88 across. At $120 you would reduce your $30 6 and 8 to $12.When I say across I don't mean all the numbers. All the systems I have posted have won me $1,000 plus at one time or another but mainly they are meant to produce some degree of profit or a break even status until you catch a streak of wins. Impatience and greed are the biggest threats to your bankroll.
GOOD LUCK. 7cumeleven@outlookexpress
Betting by Point number
I just came back from Vegas in which I won about $2,200.
I brought $300 to the table.
I began by using a $15 (I used $15 all the time) place bet.
Then, if the point is a 4, 9, or 10 I put $30 on 6 and $30 on 8, $25 on 5, and $10 on the field. I specifically don't play the odds so that I may use that money on the 6 and 8 which are more likely to hit.
I wait for three hits (since 4 is about the average time before a 7 appears) and then take all money down.
If the point is 6 or 8, I moved the $30 from one number and pressed it on the other. I would also take full odds.
If the 5 is point, I put $30 on both 6 and 8, $10 on the field and match my $15 place bet with $15 odds.
Using this method I was able to make about $500 in about 30 minutes. Now using about $500 of the houses money, I would use the same method, but increase my 6 and 8 bets (given a 4, 9, or 10 is the point) to $90 or $120 each. I also then placed $50 on 5 and $25 on the field and still using a $15 place bet. Two or three hits and I take down. A few times I got a little greedy and lost about $400 after already hitting 3 times. If I wasn't so greedy I could have easily had about $3000 more to my winning, but we live and learn. The numbers may not add up as far as the odds are concerned, but the bottom line is that once I started using the
house's money I increased my bets to the point that at any one time if I didn't hit I would be right back where I started from and not in the negative.
Just to add, I don't do odds bets on 4, 9, and 10. I play the field which concentrates more money on more numbers to include the 4, 9, 10. Also, the field bet should be more than the place bet if the point is 5. This way I still make money if the point is made.
After a day of consistent and fast
losing at the tables in Reno, I tried to come up with some method that
might stem the tide. I normally don't bet the pass line or don't pass line so I
really don't care if the shooter makes the point or not. I just want to win a
bet before that seven shows.
I came up with a variation of the 7 method. I use it for 6 and 8 place bets, but you can use it for 5 and 9 or any other combination that you'd like.
You make a $6 place bet on the 6 and 8. You leave the bets working till one of them is hit. Then you take them down and wait for the end of the roll.
After the next point is established you make 2 more place bets on the 6 and 8 and add 1 unit to the number that last won.
For example: You start by making $6 place bets on the 6 and 8. The 6 is thrown, so you take both bets down and wait for the end of the roll. After the new point is established you would make a $12 six and a $6 eight place bet.
You would repeat the process every time you win a bet. You would need to win three or four times before you would recoup your initial $12 bet and start turning a profit.
This method is good for a choppy to semi hot table. One plus to this method is that if you do reach the higher levels, your profit coming off the tables greatly increases with every win in relation to your initial $12 outlay. Also, if the table turns hot, you are already betting at a way higher level and you can truly take advantage by letting the bets work for the life of the roll.
The downside, as with most systems, is an early seven.
Comments welcome. email@example.com
$60. on the 6 or 8. One hit, down for $70.
Place 5/9 $25. each (20.00 pr) Hit on 5, down for $35. Hit on 9, down for $35.
more. Profit $90.
Or place 5 or 9 for $50. to accomplish the same result. Go back to 6 and 8, place both for $24. each ( profit
$42.) and press from there to $36. Then regress back to $24. and so on.
GOOD LUCK SHOOTER57
Single # follow
Follow a single #--6 or 8.
Table SHOULD NOT BE COLD
Each shooter gets only 4 rolls, win or no win, after 4 rolls, remove the bets.
Place 1 unit (10,20 or 50 whatever you are comfortable with)
If your #(6 or 8) is rolled take profit and the principle out.
If # is not rolled in 4 rolls, pull it down unless he is a hot shooter.
If shooter is hot then parley the wins for 2-3 times.
If the bet is lost( that is 7 is rolled) wait until the next point is established, then martingale as follows-
3 units, if lost 7 units if lost 15 units and stop.
Any win will give you profit. After any win start the cycle from unit 1 again.
My records show a consistent win.
Players feed back is appreciated.
Good Luck. sam
The Squeeze Box - Heavy's
Outside-In Power Press Progression
The number of ways to attack the game of craps is unlimited, but some plays attract more attention than others do - particularly from dealers who think they have seen it all. Here is a play I make from time to time that always piques their interest. I call it the Squeeze Box - or Heavy's Outside-In Power Press Progression.
Let's assume we're down at my favorite gambling hall, the Perfect World Casino. It's called that because - unlike the Real World Casino - these types of plays always seem to work out there.
The strategy is simple. Place all the numbers. Whenever one of your numbers rolls you take down the bet and parlay the bet and winnings to the next inside number. Once all bets have migrated to the six and eight you take one hit and down - or one hit and regress.
In a $10 game, by-pass the come-out roll of a qualified shooter then place $64 across including the point. Now let's say the shooter tosses the nine next. The $10 wager on the nine pays $14. Tell the dealer to take you down on the nine, then slide the $10 plus the $14 win back to him and instruct him to press the eight to $36.
Suppose the 8 rolls next. The dealer pays you $42 for your $36 wager and you say "same bet." In this strategy we'll say "same bet" when the six or eight roll until all of the other wagers have progressed to the six and eight.
Let's say the four rolls next. The dealer pays you $18 for the $10 place bet on the four. Tell the dealer to take you down on the four, then slide the $10 place bet plus $15 of the $18 payoff back to the dealer and instruct him to press the five to $35. As an option off that - you could drop $2 on the table with the payoff and power press the five to $40. But in this case let's use $35 as our number.
Next toss the five rolls. The payoff is $49. You tell the dealer to "take me down on the five." Then you slide the $35 plus the $49 payoff back to the dealer and tell him to "make my six look like $96.
Next toss the eight repeats. You lock up another $42 and say "same bet" again. At this point you've taken a total of $87 off the table and have a $23 profit locked up. But look at all the action you have out there. There's a $96 six, a $36 eight, and a $10 ten on the table - a total of $142 action.
Now, if you're playing in the "Real World Casino" this is the point where many of us start scratching our heads and counting on our fingers. You could easily regress to $30 each on the six and eight, lock up another $82 and have a guaranteed $105 win. But what the heck - we're playing in the "Perfect World," so let's let the strategy run its course.
A miracle occurs and the shooter tosses the ten. The dealer pays you an additional $18. You take down the wager on the ten, then slide that wager plus $15 of the payoff back to the dealer and instruct him to "place the nine for $25." Then, as often happens in the Perfect World - the shooter tosses the nine. The dealer cuts out $35. You tell him to "take down the nine and give me $60 pressure on the eight."
Now you have $96 each on the six and eight - a total of $192 action. Next toss - eight hard. The dealer pays you $112 and you say the magic words, "Bring me down on the six and eight. You rack your chips, tally them, net out the original $64 wager, and discover you have just won $330.
For those of you who want a simpler play without spreading $64 across, the squeeze box strategy can easily be scaled down to play inside numbers only. On a budget? Start with $22 inside instead of $44. If you get a hit on the five or nine you take that number down, add the payoff to the original bet and press the adjacent inside number. That gets you to three units on the six or eight, where you take one hit and down.
A power-press parlay move is a beautiful thing when it works, and I've had fair success with several variations of this play on long hands by random rollers. But in the Real World Casino the seven is always lurking out there. If you find yourself out of your comfort zone with the size of the bet, just remember that you never lose when you take money off the table.
I'll assume that the reader knows how to play craps. If you
don't know how to play craps, don't learn it. :) My 'system' will not get rid of
the house percentage. All it does is cut it down considerably.
For starters, I never play the field bet (up to 5.2% HP (house percentage)), hard ways (up to 11% HP), place the 5, 9, 4, or 10, (up to 5% HP), or play any one roll proposition bet (any craps, 7, 11, 2, 3, 12, etc., which have up to a 16.6% HP!). I confine my bets to the following:
Pass Line (1.41% HP)
Don't Pass (1.40% HP)
Come (1.41% HP)
Don't Come (1.40% HP)
Place the 6 or 8 (1.51% HP)
All of these keep the house edge down to about 1.5%.
I'm primarily a Right-way bettor, and the only time I'll bet the "don't" is when all the tables are full and the one I'm at is busting out frequently. Otherwise, I play the pass, come, and place the 6 and 8.
Most casinos offer what are called 'free odds'. What this means is that the player can place from 1 to 100 times the pass or come bet on the number shot on such a bet and receive true odds on the number being made before a seven shows up. For example, most casinos will pay you 7 to 5 on placing a 5 or 9. The true odds are 3 to 2, or 7.5 to 5. If you make, say, a $5 pass line bet in a casino that allows ten-times odds, and a nine comes up, you may place up to $50 on the nine, and you'll get the correct payout of $75 if your nine wins, plus even money on your $5 pass bet.
Therefore, when I play, I bet the minimum I need to bet on the pass line to be able to take as much of the odds as I can comfortably afford. For example, if the casino is offering five-times odds, and I can take $25 in odds, I'll bet $5 on the pass line. If I can place $50 in odds, I'll play $10 on the line, etc.
My system is very simple. I don't subscribe to the 'hot table - cold table' theories. I know that tables do run very hot and very cold. But there's no way of predicting in advance when the table is going to go cold, and no way of predicting when it is going to run hot. Craps is a very streaky game, but the streaks aren't predictable in advance. Switching from one table to the next, waiting on certain shooters, etc., isn't going to change your long-term results one iota, at least not in theory.
So I break my gambling bankroll into as many sessions as I plan on playing, so that I'll have money to play for each session (e.g., I go on Friday night and come home on Sunday afternoon, and I don't care to be broke the first night, so I apportion my bankroll into units to cover four sessions (Friday night, Saturday afternoon, Saturday night, and Sunday afternoon).
When the shooter is coming out, according to how much I have in the bankroll, I'll then place the six and eight (for multiples of 6, as the six and eight pay 7 to 6). I then place a pass line bet in an increment of 5. Then I wait for the roll. If a point is made, I take the odds. Then I put out a come bet. If another point is rolled, I take the odds on that. I place one more come bet and take the odds on that. Whenever I make a point on the come, I'll place another come bet. If one of my points is six or eight, I take the place bet down.
The idea is to keep a pass line bet with odds, and two come bets with odds in action at all times, as well as the six and eight, if they aren't one of the three other bets (the one pass and two come).
Naturally, a seven wipes everything out. But by playing this way, you're giving up bets with 1.4% to 1.51% to the house, and you're getting to make bets (taking the odds) with NO percentage advantage to the house. This cuts the house advantage down as much as possible, while giving the player plenty of action.
As far as pressing my bets, I simply don't. Again, tables run hot and cold, but there's no way of knowing that they're going to run hot in advance, nor when they're going to go cold. You're getting plenty of action this way with as many as five points covered (the 6, 8, and a pass and two come bets if they're not on 6 or 8), and if the shooter has a long run, you'll make money, while you won't lose a whole ton when he/she eventually sevens out. If I happen to win nicely in one session, I might allocate some of the win to the next session's bankroll, and be able to play more that way. But this method gives the player who wants plenty of action the best chance, percentage wise, to keep the house's advantage down, at least in my opinion.
Remember: never gamble money you can't afford to lose.
Place bet both the 6 and 8 using whatever
dollar bet you normally use ($6, $12, $24, etc.), but place this bet ONLY AFTER
A SEVEN on a come out, and stick with that bet. Make your bet WORKING ON THE
COME OUT always, and yes, take the risk of hitting natural 7's and losing it
all. Its ok. You will win over time, as there are more chances of hitting a 6/8
here than later (see
explanation below). Take ONE HIT (WIN) ON EITHER NUMBER AND TAKE THEM ALL DOWN! That's it! Wait for the next 7-out, then start over! Consistency is important in this system, except as described below, if you want to weather choppy and cold tables with the system. Performs about the same on all table conditions, though you might see as much as 8 or even 10 consecutive wins on very hot tables, which is really nice. Yes, its boring and very conservative, but I not only win consistently, but from simulations,
apparently beat the odds. I'll explain my theories on that later...
Some additional rules to remember when using the Stokely System:
1. Never put up another bet on a come out after a point is made, no matter how hot the roller. Wait for the seven, if your win one of your points, before you bet again.
2. Only place the working 6/8 after 7's, period!
3. Don't be tempted by regressions, parleys, etc. Take your profit and your bet down, sit out the round of numbers and wait for the next 7. Don't be tempted to take another hit (except as described later)
4. Groupings of multiple 7's are rare, but occur. How to handle such losses and other items are described later.
5. Avoid mixing other bets and especially hedges......they not only eat your winnings, but increase your losses! Use the same bet over and over again unless as described below.
6. If you are good at chip tracking 7-cycles on the table, precision rollers, or dice setters, use these to your advantage in increasing your standard bet.
(Some reasons below for why this works and beats the casino's house advantage....)
1. There are 10 of 36 ( 5 in 36 for each number) ways to roll a 6 or 8 on any single roll and 6 ways in 36 to roll a 7. So its more likely you will hits a 6 or 8 before a 7 on any given roll. That's obvious. The odds say you should hit one of the 6/8's 62.5% of the time and the 7's 37.5% of the time. Factoring in the payout for 6/8 at 7 for 6, the house collects its percentage when the dreaded 7 finally hits, either as a natural on the come out or if no 6/8 before the next 7. That equates to the 1.51 or so percent house advantage on the Place bet on 6/8.
2. However, the above percentages as described above assume the following, and therefore does NOT apply to the Stokely System and helps explain why it works as well as it does:
a. Above scenario and percentages assumes you keep your place bet on the table for every bet (except the come out), hitting numbers until a seven hits and you lose your table bets (which you are not in my system) or
b. Above scenario and percentages assumes you are betting every time or roll of the dice (working), and as well, leaving your place bet up every single roll of the dice till lost by a seven (which you are not in my system).
*In fact, you break the odds described above using the Stokely System, because you are not betting every roll of the dice AND not leaving your wager up, but taking it down after one hit. In addition, because you use a "working" place 6/8 bet right AFTER every seven, it means you would have to hit TWO sevens in a row to lose on this bet, as you placed your bet right after the last 7. As you will see, this is the least likely point of ever rolling a seven again based on the fact that 7's must average out to one every six rolls on average, so the advantage is one your side (more later).
So is the house edge broken?
(Lets look at another reason for this...)
I think it is but its a little complex to describe the reasoning. Based on the odds, that 6 of 36 times on a roll of dice in craps, you will roll a seven, you will see a rhythm of 7-cycles in which you have hot rolls of many numbers before a seven appears, short cycles with few numbers, and on the extremes, several 7's in a row, and even huge rolls with no sevens for sometimes hours, on very rare occasions. Over time all these still average out to cycles, of rolling a 7 every 6 rolls (roughly). If we lived in a perfect universe, where the percentages were pure and consistent for two rolled dice, you could bet a series of numbers right after a 7 and after five rolls, make your numbers, take them down and avoid the coming 7. In fact, in our universe of probability, over averages of many rolls this does actually average out this way, and using the system above, by placing a bet right after a 7 and making it working on the come out, you will more than likely hit the 6/8 once, making a profit and taking down to avoid the loss. By taking down your bet after a win, and waiting for the seven, you not only make a profit but avoid losing ANY money. No hedging, No dice setting, No pushing or regression/progressions needed. You simply avoid the loss and the combination of the win and avoidance of loss along the come out working 6/8, and the bet right after a 7, you should consistently win and see a different odds result.
I've seen many many cases where after making my one bet, the hot roller came, and I watched some big money win, while I sat on the sidelines. I then watched the dice turn fiercely cold and people's money get sucked up, including a small number of mine on a handful of seven's with no 6/8 numbers. But my losses were almost nothing compared to the excited players beside me who thought they had a hot table. When the table came back warm, I was still way ahead, using my system. Even in a situation where I saw a series of short rolls or 7 naturals followed by hot rolls, where the numbers of sevens equaled out, yet I was at a loss because I made only one win over the life of a hot roll, yet lost both 6/8 bets due to a pair of sevens rolled in unison, the natural state of the two dice were such that I still returned to the choppy table scenario of seeing 7's spread between 4 and 8 point numbers, making their averages of one 7 in six rolls. It was very strange how consistently this system wins!
(Let's look at this another way...)
On average you should see a 7 every six rolls. Its true you can hit several 7's in a row, and that would be your principal loss in the system. But then again, to balance this, the law of probability would demand that some rolls spread those 7's apart, and almost guarantee making your 6 or 8 bet during hot rolls. But based on the averages, you still should have the 62.5% chance of hitting either a 6 or 8 on any given roll, no matter if the dice are hot or cold But, what you actually see, is there is LESS of a chance of rolling a seven the closer you are to one just rolled. In other words, the chance of rolling 2 or 3 or 4 consecutive 7's is increasingly small. Why? Because you are seeing the laws of probability at work, whereby you should see some other number than a 7 following a rolled 7. As you begin to roll numbers after a seven, they tend to want to group every six roll. If you do roll a lot of sevens, you can bet you will eventually see some longer rolls. I've made and charted thousands of cycles of sevens this way and simulations, and over time, you do see the 7's averaging a grouping centered around 6 rolls. By making a WORKING COME OUT 6/8, following a seven, you should catch one of those numbers MUCH more frequently than waiting a 5-count, etc. The reason being, the dice cannot continually rack up large tight groupings of sevens, without equalizing out with hot rolls. If you chart rolls of craps dice, what you find is that the number of time you get a "hot" roll, or one that say, exceeds six rolls or actually say 12 rolls, that those occur about every 6 times and in rhythmic cycles, or even rarer for longer rolls, and that its therefore less likely you will catch your 6/8 very often in a table. Its as if, when you actually looks at hundred of these cycles of sevens, you see players waiting every six shooter or fifth shooter for the hot roll, and it does occur in about that frequency. Because natural 7's in groups are mainly a convenience for players and a small win on a come out
usually, they are ignored in the pattern, yet are actually indicators of the rhythm of 7's occurring on a table, whereby the dice go cold then hot then cold in many cycles. Betters who ride the inside numbers or 6/8 place betters who place those bets following a COME OUT ROLL, are actually locked into the mentality that a hot roll will come and save them, when in actuality, on average, they really only have 5 or 6 numbers before the 7 hits! Why push or regress any bet, with that factor in place. If a hot roll occurs every 6 shooters (or six 7-cycles actually) on average (according to my stats), why through money away by NOT working all your bets after a seven, and taking them down immediately? If I knew I had five or six chances (numbers or rolls of the dice) on average to hit my numbers before a 7-out, I would think I would be lucky to make one!
At some future point I hope to do math on this, as I'm trained in upper level calculus, though would have wished to have had some statistics under my belt before trying this. One problem I do see from a mathematics perspective, is there are two ways to view this:
1. First says that EVERY roll of the dice you have the SAME chance of rolling a 6, 8, or 7, PERIOD! Does not matter when you place your 6/8 bet
2. But the factor of time and sequential numbering defies this fact, as does some math (see below). What do I mean by this? I mean that because 7's HAVE to be distributed, on average, every six rolls based on their percentage chance of being rolled (6 of 36), you cant say that its just as likely to roll 100 sevens in a row as it is to roll a spread of 100 7's averaging one every 6 rolls??? In other words, over millions of rolls, you HAVE to see so many sevens for so many rolls of the dice, and seeing large consecutive 7 series in a row or bunched together, is just very rare and less likely to occur as an EVENT. Just do some sample rolls and track the sevens and other numbers on a piece of paper and their spread and you will see this occur.
So, after seeing a 7, I say its less likely
you will see one again for the next 6 rolls, and at the very least the very next
roll, as it is to see a 6/8. Placing and making a 6 or 8 after every 7, as a
working come out bet, is just a much more likely event, and I also argue
decreases as the rolls continue till the 7 is finally hit. I ask you in this
light, as proof of this, how often do you see three, four, or more consecutive
7's at a table vs. the dice rolling a hand full of numbers between seven's? I
see many more numbers before I hit three or four 7's in a row, if they even
occur for some rolls. And how often do you hit 6 and 8's before a seven over the
FIRST SIX rolls of the dice after a 7, vs. in the next 12? Pretty consistently.
Why, because after the first six its very likely you hit a seven a some point!
Maybe one in 6 or even 10 shooters is hot enough to carry the dice 18+ rolls without sevening-out. The odds seem to change or even increase over millions of rolls then for making money on place bets place immediately AFTER a 7 then from the point later or the six rolls BEFORE a 7-out, don't they?
So I do see the consistent wins on this system, and the reasoning and enough percentages to see how and why the odds on this work.
Lastly, I mentioned a way to extend the wins on the Stokely System for situations where you do hit allot of natural 7's. What generally happens on what I call a true "COLD" table, is that the number of 7's increases (not the number of don't passes), and the spread of consecutive losses using my system grows to around 3 or 4, which hurts, as you have to win at least two numbers for every single loss to start to make up for it. But the chance of such a loss; of rolling either 3 or 4 sevens in a row, or 3 or 4 cycles with NO 6/8 is so exceedingly rare, its almost not worth mentioning. If you have a 62.5% chance of hitting a 6/8 and avoid hitting a single number after
6 or 10 or even 20 rolls, that's a very rare event indeed. But when the 7's come, you generally do the following to help with your losses (using this extended system below actually decreased any losses I had and nearly doubled my wins!):
A. After a single loss of your 6/8 place bet, use the same place bet as before after the next 7 (don't change anything yet)
B. If the single loss was a natural 7, meaning you rolled two 7's, the first being the 7-out, and the second a 7 on the come out, the probability of rolling a third 7 in a row is very small, and equal in probability to the probability of rolling a single 7 cubed, or 5.27%! Again, this shows mathematically the ever decreasing and tiny chances of rolling large groupings of sevens in any give scenario. Immediately, on this situation, double your bet on the next roll of the dice. Its very likely you will hit your 6 or 8.
C. If you roll a third seven, go back to your original bet, then on the next one, double or even triple your bet. You do this because now you are betting that 4 or 5 sevens wont occur in 5 rolls. Its very very unlikely, despite the fact someone will tell you its the same percentage every roll of the dice. That's true for the single roll, BUT just not, as an EVENT (of multiple sevens occurring)! That's an important reality all craps players should remember!
So, when I play $6 6/8 bets, I move this to $30 on the next bet following three or four 7's. You will just about hit it every time! On a warm table, and almost the same for a cold, as the percentage of so many losses is very small at this point. Remember, the dice are supposed to give you a 6/8 62.5% of the time on every roll. Because you are also playing against the chance of 7 grouping occurring as well, as they are supposed to playout one every six rolls, the odds are hugely in your favor after three or more 7's. I have hit 5 in a row and made a wrong bet, and seen one loss that was $100, but that's been it! The rest I picked up a much larger profit!
D. If you go multiple losses with multiple 7's or a pattern of one loss for every win, you are in a very short and very cold cycle, which MUST come around based on the odds. It just cant fight the table odds of a 7 every six rolls, and the supposed percentage of 6/8's that is supposed to occur. This almost always follows from a series of truly random shooters who sling the dice and are more likely to hit these natural 7's than a rhythm or precision shooter might do. Back off to your low standard bet always after this, and even on hot rollers, keep the same bet until you start again seeing a warm or choppy table with a pattern of 4 or more 6/8 win cycles between 7's in a row, which is typical with craps, and with my system.
E. I sometimes, though rarely, increase my base bets for a true precision roller, and may let my place bet ride one or two rolls more if I hit the 6/8 on the come out. Again, keep the fact that you should hit a 7 every 6 rolls in the back of your mind, and don't be scared to take down a bet after six or more rolls with no 6/8, if needed, or carry more money forward for those special shooters who obviously show some dice control. Those scenarios are the only exception.
I tried allot of systems using all kinds of full odds place bets and come scenarios which did win me money in Vegas. But I stumbled across this system one day running thousands of bets on my PDA Palm Pilot. I generally don't like Place bets, as they are not as exciting as working free odds on a table. But on my Palm Pilot, I was playing with placing the 6/8 and I had left Place Bets as "working" by accident in my settings, not knowing what "working" meant (being an amateur gambler). After seeing $12,000 in profits
after many plays and a consistent win, I wondered what was going on, and it was the "working" 6/8 bets that were the difference. I did some minor calculations alter and did find, that as much as 50% of your wins could come from the come out working rolls, so I felt that was crucial and a huge factor in the wins. Now this is all I play when i go to the casinos, period!
The only hard work is in telling the dealers to turn bets on and off, and once they get in the rhythm of my bets, they understand, and a good dealer will ask me every come out what I want to do. I always tip the guys who take care of me, as it is a headache to turn bets on and off so frequently, but they will do it, and you just have to stay focused and alert the dealers and watch the money trickle in! You will be amazed at how alone you are on the table making these come out bets, how exciting when you win them, and how
fun it is when after someone rolls a 7-out, your chips are the only ones still sitting on the 6 and 8, having an "off" chip protecting them from the 7. Its really a cool feeling. Just be prepared for those rare natural 7's, and when they occur, take your loss, replace the bet, as described above, and your wins will eclipse them in no time!
That's the "Stokely System" for Craps! Please give me credit for the system and all I ask is if you use it, use the name, and then drop me an email and let me know how you did. I think you will see some positive results, especially if you combine it with a good dice throwing strategy!
Good luck and drop me an email if you see any results!
This is a
good crap system for a hot table or for one that has a hot shooter you can wait
to get the dice.
Place the six and eight for $6 each and the five for $5. Place $5 in the field. Play the pass line if the point is five, six or eight, otherwise it is optional. Pressing the five after a hit is also optional, which can be advised if the table is going well.
This system will pay you on every roll!!!! The only problem you need at least six rolls average to break even then you profit Good luck!!
Wait for point to get established. Then place a 12 dollar 6 and 8. If either one hits drop 4 dollars go to 30. If 30 dollar bet hits drop 1 dollar go to 66. If the 66 dollar bet hits drop 7 dollars go to 150. 150 dollar bet hits take 175 in winnings.
150 dollar bet hits again drop 5 dollars go to 330. 330 bet hits again drop 5 dollars go to 720. 720 dollar bet hits go to 1200 take 380 in winnings. This method is based off a 1000 dollar max table if it is 2000max on the 1200 bet just full press to 2400 on next hit.
Now if you want to break the bank you can go further.
Once your place bet is at table max take 600 dollars and tell the dealer you want a 100 dollar put bet on the 6 or 8 which ever is maxed and 500 dollar odds,
Hits again do a $250 put bet with $1250 odds, hits again $500 put bet with $2500 odds, hits again $1000 put bet $5000 odds. At the end you will have a $1200 place bet and $1000 put bet and $5000 odds. One hit off of that will win you $8,400. Good luck.