There are times when you know it's a cold table and you
want to make don't come bets. You do so, but the shooter always seems to throw
an early seven. You lose the first DC or a push results on your second DC. When
that happens I start to bet the following way.
I wait three rolls before making any DC bets. This gets you
past the early seven. Just make two DC bets.
If your first DC is a 4 or 10, lay odds and don't make
anymore bets.
starchip@live.com
This method uses flat bets with no added odds, except on
the don't pass when you are making a don't come bet.
Here's how it works. You put $5 on the don't pass line, and
the point is 6. You lay $5 on the odds and place $5 in the don't come box. If
the next roll is a 7, you would lose the $5 don't come, but win $10 on the don't
pass. A profit of $5. The next roll is 10. You now have $5 plus $5 odds on the
don't pass and $5 on the don't come 10. You would now remove the odds bet on the
don't pass.
By adding the odds bet to the don't pass when making a don't
come bet, you are insuring a win if a 7 is thrown, instead of just breaking
even.
Reprinted from an article in Chance magazine,
with permission from the author, Larry Edell. Visit his site at
Thecrapshooter.com
Bet only on Come out roll, bet
Wrong. Bet on # 10 and after the come out roll remove your bet.
If 7 comes you win. You lose only if 10 comes. He will give you 50 for 100.
Or you may bet like this- 100 each on 4 and 10 Or 100 only on 4 OR 10.
If 4 or 10 comes you lose 100 but bet again Wrong that -the same # will not
repeat.
Say you bet Wrong on 4 and 10 for 100 each (lay bets) on Come out roll.
4 came. you lose 100, then move 100 from 10 to 4 now and you may increase your
bet to 200. If he does not roll 4 again you will get your lost 100. If he rolls
4 we will lose 200 now and total loss of 300.
Then restart.
We will have to win 3 times for 2 consecutive losses.
Variation-
Bet 100 on 10, if he rolls 10 then don't bet again, wait until he is done with
the roll.
Bet on the next shooter. Come out roll only then remove the bet. Works best on
cold tables.
I wait for the current shooter to seven-out, then I place a don't pass bet. If I lose, then I chase the bet. If the current shooter gets me again, I chase one more time at 2.5 times the original bet. e.g. I bet $5..lose, bet $10...lose, bet$15...if he doesn't 7 out by the third bet, I wait him out, and start over. Most casinos I've been to, the players rarely hold the dice to three point or instant winners. I consistently get ahead 10-30% before the inevitable trend and vig turn the tides against me. Maybe someone else will verify my results. mailto:dunceputz1@aol.com
I will call myself the dark
sider for obvious reasons;
Answer these simple questions first.
1. What's the most powerful number on the table!
2. What number has the most probability to come out the most!
3. What number does the casino have on their side which enable them to
make huge profits! SO WHY NOT YOU USE IT!!! MOST
PROFESSIONAL PLAYERS DO!
HERE'S MY SYSTEM
1ST- $40 LAY ON THE 4 OR 10 (1.00 vig.) WHICH EVER THE table DOESN'T FAVOR
and $20 don't pass. A $1 yo will also hedge the dp. Bet if the 11 is rolled. The
lay bet lets you bypass the seven on the come out roll.
2ND- Once the point has been established take the lay bet down and put
$34 inside (5,6,&8) no matter what the point is and a $5 field bet. That's $59
action on the table at risk.
3RD- You will win on the next roll; if it's a 5, 6 or 8 take it down.
It will lock up a profit when you 7 out.
If it's a field number just keep making those bets. From this point on, you must
play with the 3 f's (feel, finesse and fortitude) sense and knowledge is a
must.
With this system you win on cold and choppy tables and also take advantage of
hot rolls because you can always press those place bet or go up a unit on
them. Get to the table your on.{ I have documents from casino's for tax
purposes of my winning from 1996 to now.} If you have any questions you
can e- mail me at
buddyrich@aol.com
You want to bet against a shooter making 4
consecutive passes.
You use the following progression: 10, 20, 40, 80
For example. You bet $10 on the don't pass. The shooter makes
the point, you lose $10 and for the next point you bet $20 on the don't pass.
The shooter doesn't make the point and you win $20. $10 profit on this shooter.
If you go up to and lose the $80 bet, stop making bets and
wait for the next shooter.
Maintain your bet level when and for as long as you win.
Example: You win your don't bet at the $40 level. You keep betting at this level
until you lose. Start the progression over at $10 or if you are doing well, just
drop down one level and start betting from there.
You can change this system to Don't by 3 and adjust the bet
amount to what you are comfortable with.
First I look for a table where a player is
making a don't come bet and then they take it down off the number that was
rolled. Then I ask that player if I can pay him the amount of the bet he is
taking down. This way I don't have to worry about losing the bet in the don't
come box before it gets established. The house has an 8 to 3 edge over me when I
have money in the don't come box, but once the DC is established I have the
edge. 6 to 5 on the 6 & 8, 3 to 2 on the 5 & 9 and a big 2 to 1 on the 4 & 10.
I've had great success by playing this way. The only bad
thing about playing this way is it takes time to win a small amount of money.
But it's the only way to have a little edge over the casino.
KANIVATANAKUL@YAHOO.COM
Here is a variation and/or combination of a
couple of strategies I think I saw on this site.
Lay bet the 4 and 10 for $30 each and make a $30 don't pass
bet and $2 on the yo.
Be sure the lay bets are working on the come out.
If the roll is:
2 - you win the don't pass bet and lose the yo.
3 - you win the don't pass bet and lose the yo.
12 - a push for the don't pass bet and lose the yo.
7 - win the no 4 and no 10, lose the yo, and lose the
don't pass bet.
4 or 10 - four/ ten becomes the point and you lose the
no 4/ 10 bet and the yo. Now, remove the remaining no 4/ 10 bet and take full
odds on the don't pass bet and wait for the seven.
5 thru 9 - If five, six, eight, or nine become the
point you remove the no 4 and no 10 and place the five for $10, the six for $12,
the eight for $12, and the field for $5, for one roll only then take down the
place bets and make a $30 place bet on the point number if it has not yet been
hit.
Example 1:
Lay the 4 and 10 for $30 each plus the "vig".
$30 don't pass.
$2 on the yo.
Come out roll is a 4. Lose the no 4 bet and the yo. 4
is the point.
Remove the no 10 bet and place full odds on the don't
pass bet and hope for a seven.
Example 2:
Lay the 4 and 10 for $30.
$30 on the don't pass.
$2 on the yo.
Come out roll is a 6. Six becomes the point. You lose
the yo. Now remove the no 4 and no 10 bets and place bet the 5 for $10, the 6
for $12, the 8 for $12 and the field for $5. After one roll remove the place
bets and place the remaining point number for $30. You will then have a $30
don't pass on the six and a $30 place bet on the six, a bet that can't be lost.
Donnie
I will share a play
that is about the best way you can play it and it is against all books and
advise of play, as you always advised to add odds, here you only add odds to
replace losses.
Rules to follow:
1. Table should be 10x's odds or better, the higher the better. 5x's can work
but gets hairy..
2. Have your bankroll in chips, recommended $5,000.
3: Doey/don't bet with lowest amount allowed, take double odds as if $5 bet.
4: Make 10 dc bet for first bet, increase by 5 each dc bet, except on 11-4-10-or
point. If crap 2-3 leave up for double bet no add of 5.
5: If point hit, replace with same amount you had in odds on pass line.
6: Make same doey,don't bet and same double odds bet.
7: You start adding double odds on bets after the green chip is on that number
as if it was a $5 bet, on second hit you increase to three times odds and 5
times if hit again, using small martingale,
you would have to keep increasing our odds.
8: At $50 dc bet you would increase at $10 each dc bet. Try it and if you have
any questions I would be glad to answer them.
9: You also must control the game with the boxman, if you do not have your bets
down, yell out to hold up the dice, "I have not got my bets down yet", as you
can't do anything until dealer pays off last result. Believe me this is
important, as you can lose some important replacements.
Have fun. Its hard to do on wincraps as it takes off the bet
before you can see what you had on it, at the crap table you have enough time to
see it. I use beat the house the older version, not the real old one though as
that only 2x's odds. One more thing, on a real long roll and if you had a higher
bankroll to start you would have to make a 100 do and 100 don't and $4 12 to get
the odds. You might need mostly on a 5x"s table, 100 never and 20 prob never but
could happen on 10x's table. What's good about this is that you are only loaning
out the money and when a 7 shows, which it will , it all come back.
LOU
Don't Pass
Here's my method of play:
Go to a table with very few people (looking for a cold
table).
Make a DP bet then lay single odds. Keep betting on that
shooter until he:
a) makes his point 2 times without throwing any naturals (7 or 11)
b) or rolls a natural, followed by any combination of 2 more naturals or 2 more
points (for a total of 3 losses).
The idea is to stop betting on a shooter wants he starts
beating you, then wait for the next shooter.
I use $5 base bets. Once I've won over $30, I increase my
bets. If I lose $50, I leave or switch tables.
I've had great success with this method of play.
Comments are welcome.
Unknown contributor
My buddy and I have been playing a don't pass martingale and
been doing very well.
It is so simple to do this, the first time my buddy gets the dice I place a $5
DP if he beats me I'm done with him until he finishes that roll, then when the
dice come back around to him for the 2nd time that day i simply place a $10 DP,
if he beats me, I wait for him to finish that role, then when he gets the dice
for the 3rd time that day I place a $20 DP.
I do this progression till I clear all previous bets plus a $5 winner then start
over.
I've never been past the 6TH level, I will go 8 levels if necessary so it takes
$1280 bankroll. the bets are as follows: $5, $10, $20, $40, $80, $160,
$320, $640 Most people don't have the patients to play this, But I do !!!!!
The key to this, that you can't put a math equation to the human factor that
every shooter will have some great rolls and maybe make 8 or 9 passes on that
one hot shoot, but to make a one pass eight different times you get the dice,
PLEASE, PLEASE !!!!! I've never seen it done.
I've got 3 other buddies that go to the casino with us once in awhile and they
have not been able to run me out of eight levels either.
Everybody has a few good rolls and maybe one great roll then they have those set
the point and 7 OUT and I'm in HEAVEN cause I'VE cleared and LIFE is GREAT.
I've read several books about the martingale and they hate it, but they play
consecutive rolls and I've seen 14 passes by the same shooter then the next time
he got the dice GUESS what ?? SET the point 7 OUT HA-HA-HA I clear and
start over.
The main key to this is having a team of buddies who will not leave the table
till everyone is cleared.
You can't play the guy down at the end of the table in the red hat because he
might beat you 2 or 3 times then leave the table so you have no chance to clear
the bet on him.
GOOD LUCK TED
P.S. I don't need LUCK with this style of play just the human factor or dynamics
of the game as I call it.
This is probably the fastest way to work a
progressive/regressive system.
On the first shooter you would bet $25 on the don't pass with
a $50 no 4 or no 10.
If the shooter throws a 7 on the come out, you lose the DP
but win the lay bet. The lay bet is your hedge and acts as odds for your DP.
If he makes the point before a 7 out, you lose your DP but
still have the lay bet working.
If he sevens out early, you win both bets.
2nd player, $30 on DP, $60 on no 4. Same idea.
3rd player, $40 on DP, $80 on no 4.
4th player, go back to the beginning and start again.
If you win 2 series like this, start your 3rd with a $30 DP
and a $60 no 4, then a $40 DP and a $80 no 4, and finally a $50 DP and a $100 no
4.
Some casinos won't allow a $50 no 4 or 10. You may have to
put down $40 or $60.
There are many good "ladder" systems for the pass side using
place bets, but for most of them to work and show a consistent profit throughout
a session, each player would have to hold the dice a minimum of 15 minutes. It's
not going to happen.
You can hedge further by using Larry Freiwald's Super Seven
Parlay or make an E.T. bet.
This is a variation on GRAFSTEINS.
Anyone who has a basic understanding of the
game, already is well versed in the true odds of any number being thrown and
knows that short term streaks happen all the time. But the astute “don’t side”
gambler also does not worry about the short term streaks and knows that in time
that the roll frequencies will fall in line with the “laws of probability” that
the game is based upon. This approach to winning at craps relies on that
probability and will work if patience and discipline is utilized a very high
percentage of the time.
The object of this approach is to win
$100 per shooter.
All bets will be on the “Don’t Pass
Line”.
Each shooter will be given 4 chances
against your bet.
A series of bets will be made per shooter starting with a
$100 don’t pass bet. If you lose it, then you increase the bet to $200. If that
loses, then to $400 and finally to $800. If at any point you win any of these
bets, then you will have won all your losses back plus $100 and you begin again
with the next shooter. Also included in this series is the fact that the come
out roll gives the shooter a chance to win automatically by throwing a seven, (6
ways) or a 11, (2 ways) with only a 2, (1 way) and a 3, (2 ways), that will
cause the shooter to lose and you to win. The 12 (1way) is a loser for the
shooter, but a push for you. If you lose your bet on the come out, then you
increase the wager, but if you win on the come out, then you are done with this
shooter since you have already won the $100. You just wait for him to eventually
seven out before you begin the series again with the next shooter.
If all the bets in the first series are lost, then you have
lost $1500. You stop betting and wait for the shooter to seven out. When the
dice pass to the next shooter you begin the next series.
The second series starts with a higher amount bet of $200.
The progression is then $300, then $600 and finally $1200. The total loss for
this series is $2300. If you get this far in the series you will have lost a
total of $1500 plus the $2300 which is $3800. If you win the first bet in this
series, then you have recovered $200. If you lose the first bet, but win any of
the other bets in this series, then you have only recovered the previous losses
plus $100. Also if you win any of the bets in the series, then the following
will apply. You still have to contend with the loss from the first series of
$1500. You can either go to the beginning of this series, which will allow you
to reclaim your losses at a $200 rate or you can go back to the first series
which will bring you back to the $100 per shooter rate.
The third series and fourth series stay at the $200, $300,
$600, and $1200 rate of progression. I kept it at this rate since the total
bankroll needed is $1500 + $2300 + $2300 + $2300 = $8400.
I said at the beginning that there are no sure fire systems
that will give you a positive edge and this approach is no different. However,
the odds of you losing at this approach are extremely high. It can happen and
has happened, but it is rare. There are a couple of gotchas that you need to be
concerned with:
1st it can be very dull, especially if a lot of numbers are
being thrown by each new shooter before a decision is reached on the established
point.
2nd area of concern is when a large number of 7s or 11s are
being thrown on the come out roll and the shooter makes 2 passes. This really
puts you in the red very quickly and digging yourself out will take a long time
of standing at the table.
3rd area of concern is when there is a multiple series of
shooters throwing winning 7s or 11 from the come out and then making a couple of
good passes of the dice. It might be prudent to just take your losses and find
another table. The choice is yours.
I tried this approach for a week on my computer simulator at
home before venturing to the casino. A couple of times I got buried in the
beginning and had to play forever to get even, but I did get even and was able
to then make a profit before cashing out. The other times I was able to just
collect and collect very quickly and stopped after I got to $1000 winnings.
In real life I tried this at Foxwoods and played 5 sessions.
I was successful all 5 sessions for a total win of $2500. I purposefully stopped
when I won from $400 to $600 on each table since I wanted to minimize the time
spent at each table. The first time I played, I was down and the progression
told me I had to bet $1600 on the don’t pass” which really was nerve wracking. I
did win the bet. No one said that it was going to be easy in real life to take a
chance using real money that you had to earn. I have since modified the bets to
where they are now. The approach is the same no matter what level you wish to
play at, it just matters that you are satisfied to win $10 or $25 or $100 per
shooter and are willing to risk higher levels of cash for higher levels of wins.
This is really a patient man’s way to gamble on craps and so
far it has worked. I will continue to use it until the results are different
than what I expect.
Donald
In this strategy, there is more than 80% win and less than 20%
lose.
If we play say for exaple-20 games( not 20 rolls) their will be about 10 wins
and 10 even, net result of 10 wins. Follow the winning horse-7.
Works well for cold, choppy and semi hot tables. When table is Hot or there is a
hot roller- don't bet.
here it is-
Bet only on Don't Pass 1 unit( it may be 10,25, 50), if there is 7 on come out
roll, don't worry, bet again on DP.
If you bet 25 or more, it helps to throw $2 or 5 on Yo.( to cover 11)
If the shooter wins then you lose that bet, then bet again DP double bet.
If you loose again martingale again on DP, then again one more.
Any time you win then start from 1 unit again.
If you loose 4th time, table is hot, stop here and wait or change table then
restart.
More likely a DP will come and you will make all the loss. And on all the DP's
you will win 1 unit anyway. And you lose on 7 on come outs. If more than twice 7
comes on come out roll then it may be hedged by a lay bet on 4 or 10 for come
out roll ONLY then remove it.
Chances are you will come out as a winner.
I would like to add to my Sure Shot system a
caution here-
Sometimes, very very rarely, a shooter will throw and Hits the point( P), then
7,11,7,11,7,7
Now caution here-if we lost P line (we are betting only on DP line) as he made
his point, then if we went on Martingaling next bets- it will be disaster.
So.. any time a natural comes-any time-we are supposed to start bet again from 1
unit only, on DP.
Other way to avoid this disaster is-if ANY time a natural( 7 or 11) comes, just
wait until this shooter passes. Bet on the next shooter.
sam
I have published 3 strategies
before on this site. I get few e mails thanking me of the success of these
strategies.
There are few questions a good gambler wants to know-
Is it possible to make money in gambling?
YES
Is it possible to win consistently?
YES
What is the trick?
Discipline and money management.
Most gamblers are not money managers nor disciplined, they want to have fun,
then they play until they loose.
You are a different player. You don't play for fun but you want to win
consistently.
Here is the strategy- this is refinement of my SURE SHOT strategy.
Wait till a point is established.
Then $30, 30 on 6 and 8 and 20 on 5 and 15 on the field.
Also bet on "no point" for 120 to 200(depending on the point.)
Example- if point is 4, then you bet $200 on NO 4.
After 1- roll remove all the bets.
Wait until the next shooter and repeat the same.
Every roll is paid to you 15- 25 $.
If seven is rolled you are covered.
Only way you can loose is is the shooter hits the point on the first roll.
This may happen occasionally. But you will keep on winning every roll.
You may start small- like $12,12 and 10 and 5 on 6,8, and 5 and Field.
If you think he is a hot roller, after the first roll, remove the NO BETS and
keep the others for 2-3 more rolls, then stop.
If you think the shooter is cold one then after 1-2 shots remove the number bets
and just keep the NO bet.
e mail me if you have succeed in it, which I wish you do.
sam
I visited
Harrah's in St. Louis this weekend. Started at the crap table by 8pm. They have
only one table on Island side, smaller table( new) 4 players on each side. This
table is about 5' long and 4 feet wide. The sides of the table are bouncy but
the floor is as firm as any regular table.
My bank roll was $40 only. I put my sure shot strategy to
test. I won consistently. Most players changed but I stayed up to 4 in the am
until I was tired before retiring.
I have explained my sure shot system in the strategies on
this website. I did a minor change in it. Here is how I played. I made 350$ that
night.
I waited until a point was established. Then put $6 on 6 and
8 and $5 in the field. I got paid every roll except when & or 5 is rolled. After
one field win I used to either martingale the field or remove the bets. By
martingaling once I doubled the money fast.
But the best way is to cover #5 also with $5. It works excellent like this- $12
on 6 and 8, $ 10 on 5 and $5 in the field. After one roll remove all bets,
unless the roller is a hot one and leave the bets for one more roll. I use to
lose all bets if the shooter threw 7 after the come out roll. Because I did not
hedge my bets.
The best refinement of my strategy is- bet $10 on pass and
don't pass simultaneously and $1 on #12. Now you cant lose in come out roll.
Once the point is established- then put odds DP based on the point. Then 3/4 of
the odds place bets on inside # and the Field, except the point. One roll all
bets off. This way he Must pay you for every roll. If a 7 is thrown you are
covered. Only way in this to loose is- if the shooter makes his point on the
first roll.
I had fun with this strategy and walked out a winner.
Sam
Here's a VERY simple strategy I call the Win-Plus Play. It requires a $50
bankroll and (if you're lucky) five consecutive Don't decisions.
First bet - $10 DP.
Wait for a decision. If you bet wins parlay the win plus add an additional $10
to it. Your wager will then be $30.
Wait for a decision. If your bet wins again parlay the win plus add an
additional $10 once again. This time your wager is $70.
Wait for a decision (notice a trend) parlay and add $10 to the wager. This time
your wager is $150.
Wait for a decision. If you win the best thing you could do at this point is
take down $300 for a $270 profit and get the hell away from the table. But what
the heck. Let's carry this to it's illogical conclusion and make the last two
plays of the series. You must won $150. Parlay it plus add $10. You'll have $310
on the DP.
Wait for a decision. If you win parlay the winnings plus add $10 to it. Your
total wager at this point will be $620.
Wait for a decision. If you win you'll collect $620. Bring down a total of $1240
for a profit for the series of $1190 - and you did it all with a $50 bankroll
and just five consecutive don't decisions.
BIGKAHNMAN@aol.com
This method requires a bankroll much larger than your betting
unit because there will be draw downs, but it is easy to come back from the draw
downs quickly.
We need to guard against long strings of naturals, so we will hedge against
that.
Our goal is to have 1 don't pass and 3,4, or 5 don't come bets up when the 7
comes.
A word about hedging. The purpose of this hedge is to protect you from long
strings of naturals, which do happen more often than you might think. Of
course, nothing says you won't get a long string of 10s.
One thing I do with hedge bets, if I notice that a number has been absent for a
long time I will increase the hedge periodically. For example, if I am betting
$1 on the 12 and the 12 has not appeared in 100 rolls I will start betting $2 or
$3 on the 12.
To Start:
Lay $60 on the 10.
Bet $7 on the hard 10.
Bet $30 on the Don't Pass
Bet $2 on the 11.
Bet $1 on the 12.
Now the only number that can beat you is 6-4.
If a 2,3, or 12 is rolled next bet on the Don't Pass is same bet.
If an 11 is rolled, replace the $30 on the Don't Pass.
If a 7 is rolled, replace the $30 on the Don't Pass.
If a hard 10 is rolled, lay to win 2X odds on the Don't Pass.
If an easy 10 is rolled, lay to win 2X odds on the Don't Pass and put enough on
the Hard 10 to cover the Don't Pass with odds. You are now betting that 10-7-10
will happen before 10-10. I think that is a pretty good bet.
You will get beat by the easy 10 once in a while, but don't panic.
Once the Don't Pass is established, you now switch to the Don't Come.
Bet $15 on the Don't Come. Bet $1 on the 11 and $1 on the 12.
If the 2,3,or 12 hit next bet is same bet.
Keep making $15 Don't Come bets with the $1 11 and $1 12 hedge.
If an existing Don't Come bet is taken off then increase the Don't Come bet size
by $5.
Increase for every lost Don't Come bet.
Your goal is to have 1 Don't Pass bet with 3,4, or 5 Don't Come bets.
If the shooter keeps taking off your Don't Come numbers, say you lose 10 of
these, then stop betting against this shooter.
Some don't bettors stop betting against a shooter if they lose 2 don't come
bets, I think 2 is too small, I will go up to 10 losses or higher. What usually
happens if you lose several don't come bets but keep betting against the shooter
with a negative progression is that you will have $25 to $50 on 4 or 5 Don't
Come bets when the 7 comes. Yes, you will have lost money in the meantime but
because you are using a negative progression when the 7 does come you will have
the most amount of money on the table.
Every great once in a while a shooter will get red hot and hit dozens of numbers
without a 7 out. That is why I set a limit at 10 losses on one shooter.
When the current shooter 7s out we decide how much the next Don't Pass bet will
be. If you lost on the previous shooter then use the highest Don't Come bet +
$5 as the size for the next Don't Pass bet. If you won money on the previous
shooter then the next Don't Pass bet is $30 again.
I have won a LOT of money with this approach. Shooter after shooter you are
getting paid on 2,3,4,5,6 bets when the 7 comes.
It takes nerves of steel to play this way. Your in a position a lot of times to
keep making bigger bets when you just lost 3 or 4 or 5 in a row. But, anytime I
wimped out and didn't continue the shooter 7s out.
Obviously this approach works GREAT on cold, choppy, and warm tables. SUCKS on
hot tables. Table selection is important and feeling the table so as to get the
heck out of there if the table turns hot is important.
Easier said than done I know, and I often think a table is getting hot and then
two rolls later the shooter 7s out.
I would advise that you stand on the side of the table where the crew stand,
that way you can reach the Don't Come and Don't Pass yourself. Also, tip the
dealers because the rest of the table is going to hate you and you want the
dealers on your side.
Very important if you lay odds, add up what you are supposed to be paid on every
pay off. Dealers make a lot of mistakes when paying laid odds.
I used to play this strategy laying 2X odds on all the Don't bets but I stopped
doing it because there were so many pay off mistakes.
I once took down all my don't bets (which were all backed by 2X odds) and laid
them on the Field and said "color" but the dice were already in the air and the
roll was a 9, and a dealer I had been tipping good called it a bet and paid me.
That was sweet but I often wondered what would have happened had the roll been
an 8. LOL
Submitted by Neal Kistenmacher